I was at Angelita Madrid tonight — that temple of thoughtful wine and serious cooking — and was served a glass of La Mariole 2022 with a beautifully succulent dish of Iberian pork neck. The pairing was spot-on: the wine’s lifted fruit and fresh acidity cut through the richness of the meat like a blade, while its earthy undertones echoed the depth of flavour in the dish.
La Mariole is a wine from Domaine LaDogar, located in the Minervois region of Languedoc in southern France. This is rugged land: Mediterranean scrub, garrigue, old stones and sun-drenched vineyards. Historically known for powerful, sometimes rustic reds, the best producers today are offering something much more nuanced — and this bottle is a great example of that shift.
Domaine LaDogar is a relatively small, low-intervention project that works primarily with native grape varieties and aims for purity and drinkability. La Mariole 2022 is made from carignan, sourced from old vines planted on limestone soils. The grapes are fermented with native yeasts and see a short maceration, followed by élevage in concrete tanks. The aim is clearly to preserve the brightness and vitality of the fruit, rather than to impose any heavy-handed structure.
La Mariole 2022 (Dom. LaDogar)
Medium dark. Aroma of wild cherries, redcurrants, a touch of violet and a characteristic herbal lift. On the palate, it’s light-bodied but tense, with juicy acidity, fine tannins and a stony, mineral backbone. No oak, no pretence — just pure, energetic fruit with a salty edge.
Price: Low
Food: With the pork, it sang. The slight gaminess of the meat brought out the savoury side of the wine, while the fat was kept in check by the wine’s cleansing freshness. Can work with a variety of light meat and green dishes.
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