This was the first wine I shared with the woman who is now my wife. That alone gives Juvé & Camps Reserva de la Familia a rather special place in my wine memory. I also shared a bottle as the 1990s gave way to the new millennium. But the wine has a story that extends well beyond my own memories – and it has just entered a fascinating new chapter.
In April this year, Juvé & Camps announced that they were leaving DO Cava to join Corpinnat, becoming the 22nd member of the collective. It is a significant move: one of the historic names of Cava has chosen a body whose rules demand organic grapes, hand harvesting, vinification on the estate and extended bottle ageing, with a strong emphasis on the traditional varieties and viticultural identity of Penedès.
Reserva de la Familia itself has a particularly charming origin. It was originally made for the family’s own table – quite literally the family’s reserve – before being released commercially for the first time in 1976. It subsequently became the house’s emblematic sparkling wine.
The 2021 is a traditional Penedès blend of 50% xarel·lo, 35% macabeu and 15% parellada, from certified organic vineyards. Only the free-run juice is used. After a temperature-controlled first fermentation in stainless steel, the blend undergoes its second fermentation in bottle and spends a minimum of 36 months ageing there, thus a gran reserva. It is finished as brut nature, with no dosage.
Reserva de la Familia 2021 (Juvé & Camps)
Bright, clear golden yellow, with a persistent stream of very fine bubbles. The nose begins with crisp apple and white flowers, before opening towards fennel, dried Mediterranean herbs, toasted almonds and warm bread. With air there is a subtle creamy, lees-derived character, but the fruit remains fresh. The palate is dry and precise, with fine, beautifully integrated mousse and enough weight to give the wine presence without sacrificing tension. Apple, citrus peel, almond and lightly toasted bread lead into a savoury, gently saline finish. Elegant rather than showy, and impressively complete – a classic Penedès sparkling wine at a fascinating moment in its history.
Price: Low