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Wine of the Week

Riesling on a warm summer’s day

I’m in the small Norwegian town of Skien. I’m sitting outside at Strøm, which isn’t a typical wine bar, but right now they’re pouring some surprisingly good wines by the glass.

One of them is the Riesling Trocken 2023, from one of the Pfalz region’s most respected producers. Reichsrat von Buhl has been making wine since the 19th century, and their dry Rieslings are known for clarity, energy and precision.

Grapes are grown organically around Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg and fermented with native yeasts. This vintage is bright, dry and stony — a riesling for the table, but also a warm day drink.

Riesling Trocken 2023 (Reichsrat von Buhl)

Pale straw with a green hint. Lime zest, green apple and a touch of grapefruit pith on the nose. The palate is fresh and mouthwatering, with concentrated fruit, a racy acidity, a chalky texture and a dry, salty finish.

Price: Low

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