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Tag: arinto dos açores

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Simplesmente… Vinho 2026 III – From the rest of Portugal

Some highlights from the rest of Portugal.

Constantino Ramos works mainly in Minho, producing super-fresh, often saline wines, both white and red. This time I was particularly impressed by Juca 2024, where chestnut flowers are used instead of sulphur. Dark in colour with a faint bluish tone, the wine shows aromas of both red and darker berries. On the palate it is juicy and lively, with fresh acidity, a lightly saline touch and an extra layer of complexity. The finish is long and energetic.

At Materramenta – where Constantino also consults, working with Luís Vasco – the focus was on wines from three different Azores islands. I chose Materramenta D.O. Biscoitos 2024 a verdelho and arinto dos açores blend from Terceira, where the project has its headquarters. Pale straw in colour, it offers aromas of ripe apple and citrus. The palate is bright and lively, with good acidity and a clear saline note that reflects the Atlantic surroundings.

From Lisboa wine region, Quinta da Serradinha – located near Leiria in the northern part of the region, in the limestone hills of Encostas d’Aire – and António Marques da Cruz showed a range of stylish wines in different colours. Serradinha Branco 2024, made from encruzado and arinto, had 18 hours of skin contact, was fermented in barrels and aged ten months on the lees. The result is golden in colour, with aromas of yellow apple and herbs. The palate is mouthfilling and textured, combining weight with freshness. A second version with a higher proportion of arinto (around 65%) showed a little more acidity and tension.

From the Douro, Grau Baumé – represented here by Hugo Mateus and based around Peso da Régua – presented Undo Alvarinto 2021, a blend of alvarinho and arinto. The wine is light and aromatic, with citrus and floral notes on the nose. On the palate it shows moderate weight, lively acidity and a clean, refreshing finish.

Tiago Sampaio, also from the Douro (and not far away, from around Alijó), poured Uivo Chronológico Ancestral 2018, a pét-nat made from pinot noir. Many people claim that pét-nat cannot age, but Tiago is keen to demonstrate the opposite. The wine is light golden in colour, with subtle brioche notes and fine, well-integrated bubbles. The palate is dry, complex and gastronomic – the kind of sparkling wine that works beautifully at the table.

Finally, from Vidigueira in Alentejo, Natus and Hamilton Reis presented Natus 2023. Vidigueira is known as a white-wine enclave in a region dominated by reds. This roupeiro-antão vaz-gouveio blend shows a light golden colour, with a deep and layered aroma profile. On the palate it is broad and complex, combining ripeness with freshness and a long, balanced finish.

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Wine of the Week

Speaking of the island and the sea

Adega do Vulcão tells the story of a Florentine family who fell in love with the Azorean volcanic islands. What started as a retreat soon turned into a commitment to revive native grape varieties and produce wines influenced by Atlantic winds and volcanic soil.

At the heart of the project are two generations of Italian entrepreneurs with backgrounds in business and marketing. Their work is overseen by Alberto Antonini, the Italian consultant who has guided the project from the outset. 

Cinzia Caiazzo and Gianni Mancassola

The winery, located in São Roque on Pico, is equipped with modern technology. It uses refrigerated concrete tanks and untoasted wood to preserve freshness and texture while allowing the volcanic character to shine through. 

The project spans two islands, Faial and Pico, where approximately 20 hectares of vines are cultivated in two distinct volcanic soil types. The distinctive character of these wines is produced by combining these unique terroirs with the influence of the ocean, latitude and dedicated manual labour. The diversity of the soils is reflected in the wines produced, each with its own unique character.

The Pico seen from Criação Velha

On Pico Island, the vines are cultivated in currais — small plots enclosed by ancient dry-stone walls that protect them from the ocean winds. They are planted in lajido, the lava crust formed over centuries following volcanic eruptions. Production levels are low. 

On Faial, the volcanic ash resulting from the 1957 Capelinhos eruption, has created a unique terroir with an exceptional mineral composition, excellent drainage and a distinctive microclimate, yielding wines of remarkable purity and minerality.

From the black volcanic lajidos of Criação Velha on Pico, this wine is made from predominantly arinto dos açores vines aged 70 to 90 years. The grapes are hand-selected in the vineyard and gently pressed in a vertical press under inert atmosphere, followed by a pre-fermentation maceration and spontaneous fermentation in temperature-controlled cement tulip vats. Aged 12 months on the lees.

Pé do Monte 2021 (Adega do Vulcão)

Pale golden. Aroma of pear and white peach, lime peel, flint and hints of iodine. Medium-bodied with tension, a vibrant acidity and a long salty finish. It really speaks of the island and the sea.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Between volcanic stones on Pico

On an island shaped by lava flows and stone-walled vineyards, we find Entre Pedras—a producer whose name, meaning “between stones”, is a fitting tribute to Pico’s volcanic terrain, where vines cling to life just metres from the Atlantic Ocean.

Arinto dos açores is not a clone of the mainland arinto but a distinct, ancient variety indigenous to the Azores. Perfectly adapted to the challenges of Pico—high humidity, saline winds, and meagre soils—it thrives in biscoitos, traditional plots carved into black basalt. Each vine grows within low stone enclosures, or currais, which protect against ocean winds and salt spray. The roots penetrate fissures in the lava rock, drawing mineral intensity from deep within the earth.

Entre Pedras is the project of André Ribeiro and his partner Ricardo Pinto, who bring a deep respect for Pico’s winemaking heritage alongside a clear commitment to purity and site expression. The vineyards are farmed by hand, and fermentation is carried out with native yeasts, allowing the grapes and volcanic soils to speak for themselves. The 2022 vintage was fermented in stainless steel and aged on fine lees—a method that builds texture while preserving freshness and clarity.

Arinto dos Açores 2022 (Entre Pedras)

Bright pale gold in the glass. The nose is saline and stony, with notes of lime and green apple skin. On the palate, it’s razor-sharp and electric, driven by a vibrant core of acidity. There’s a subtle creaminess, underpinned by a fine, chalky texture. Persistent and mouthwatering—this is a wine of clarity, precision, and tension.

Price: Medium

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