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Month: July 2025

Wine of the Week

Gluggable Zweigelt

Claus Preisinger is part of a new Austrian wave, farming biodynamically on the northern shore of the Neusiedlersee and keeping things refreshingly simple in the cellar: native yeast, no fining or filtering, minimal sulphur.

Kieselstein means “pebble”, a nod to the gravelly soils that shape this wine. It’s Preisinger’s most easygoing red, made from hand-harvested Zweigelt, fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and aged briefly in large old oak.

Zweigelt Kieselstein 2023 (Claus Preisinger)

Pale, translucent red. Aroma of cherry, crushed raspberry and a pinch of pepper. There’s a lovely lift of acidity, a flicker of saltiness, and fine-grained tannins. A gluggable wine with a light carefree spirit.

Price: Low

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Wine of the Week

Riesling on a warm summer’s day

I’m in the small Norwegian town of Skien. I’m sitting outside at Strøm, which isn’t a typical wine bar, but right now they’re pouring some surprisingly good wines by the glass.

One of them is the Riesling Trocken 2023, from one of the Pfalz region’s most respected producers. Reichsrat von Buhl has been making wine since the 19th century, and their dry Rieslings are known for clarity, energy and precision.

Grapes are grown organically around Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg and fermented with native yeasts. This vintage is bright, dry and stony — a riesling for the table, but also a warm day drink.

Riesling Trocken 2023 (Reichsrat von Buhl)

Pale straw with a green hint. Lime zest, green apple and a touch of grapefruit pith on the nose. The palate is fresh and mouthwatering, with concentrated fruit, a racy acidity, a chalky texture and a dry, salty finish.

Price: Low

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Wine of the Week

A no additions ancestral xarel.lo

No trip to Murcia is complete without visiting La Gracia wine bar. This wine was among several gems that Cristina, one of the owners, offered me this time.

Pregadéu is a 100% xarel·lo, grown organically in the limestone soils of the Alt Penedès and fermented using the ancestral method—capturing a natural sparkle with no added sulphur or sugar.

Els Vinyerons is the passion project of Alex Ruiz Masachs and Amós Bañeres. Alex is a fourth-generation producer who spends his spare time rebelling against convention. Amós left pharmacy to take over his grandfather’s vines. Together, they focus on local varieties, expressive terroirs, and wines they genuinely want to drink.

Pregadéu 2023 (Els Vinyerons Vins Naturals)

Pale lemon with fine mousse. Aromas of bruised apple, fennel and sea breeze. Dry, saline and textured, with a savoury, mineral finish that lingers long after the fizz fades.

Price: Low

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Wine of the Week

Cloudy by Nature

Katharina Wechsler’s Cloudy by Nature series is the playful, low-intervention side of her portfolio, aimed at wine drinkers who value vibrancy and texture over polish. These are wines made with a hands‑off philosophy: unfiltered, unfined, fermented with native yeasts and bottled with minimal sulphur. The range embraces the slightly wild, the faintly cloudy and the joyfully drinkable.

The grapes come from old vines in Westhofen, with organic certification since 2021 and biodynamic practices already in place. Fermentations happen in stainless steel or neutral vessels, the wines are bottled cloudy and left to express themselves with minimal interference.

Among these expressive bottles in the Cloudy by Nature range is the Pet Nat 2022, a sparkling silvaner that captures the raw vitality of the method ancestrale. It is made from 100 % silvaner grown on old vines in Westhofen, and after around three weeks of skin contact, it is bottled while fermentation is still underway. No filtration, no dosage, just juice, native yeast and time. The result is a gently fizzy wine with a slight haze and plenty of attitude.

Cloudy by Nature Pet Nat 2022 (K. Wechsler)

Hazy, pale straw yellow with a faint golden tint. Bright aromas of green apple, dried herbs and a touch of cider-like savouriness. On the palate it’s lively and bone-dry, with a fine but slightly rustic mousse, citrus zest, orchard fruit and a light phenolic grip from the skin contact. The lees bring gentle weight and breadth, but the wine feels agile and fresh.

Price: Low

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