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Month: August 2025

Wine of the Week

Pre-traditional Rioja

Since 2014, husband-and-wife team Oscar Alegre — who has worked with legends such as Álvaro Palacios and Telmo Rodríguez, and is an authority on Rioja wine history — and Eva Valgañón, from a family of top growers whose fruit has graced the region’s most famous labels, have set out to revive an even older Rioja tradition. From small, high-altitude plots below the Obarenes Mountains in the far west of Rioja, they follow the ways of the pre-phylloxera era: vine-by-vine attention, stems in the ferment, and shorter ageing in large, neutral barrels. Their work offers a taste of Rioja’s 1,000+ year viticultural heritage — a flavour of the region before “traditional Rioja” as we now know it even existed.

The 2022 Tinto blends 75 % tempranillo, 20 % garnacha and 5 % viura from these cooler sites.

Alegre Valgañón Tinto 2022 (Alegre Valgañón)

Deep, dark cherry colour in the glass. On the nose it is vibrant and expressive, with boysenberry, blackberry and cassis layered over hints of musk and suede, and a subtle stony note. The palate brings a flood of ripe berries carried by a slate-like texture, refined yet approachable, leading to a long finish with a gentle echo of coffee and a touch of warmth that frames the fruit. And just as the label suggests — “Sírvase con cariño” — this is a wine to be poured with care and shared with love.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Silvaner from Stein of Franken

Here is a silvaner from Weingut am Stein, located at the foot of the legendary Würzburger Stein vineyard in Franken. This family estate dates back to the 1890s and is now steered by fifth-generation winemakers Ludwig and Sandra Knoll, with the next generation already contributing to the legacy. Since 2006 the estate has embraced organic farming, biodynamic since 2008.

The vineyards lie on classic Muschelkalk (shell-limestone). These stony, clay-rich soils lend a vibrant mineral backbone. For the 2023 vintage, grapes were hand-harvested, underwent spontaneous fermentation in stainless-steel tanks, and matured on the lees for eight months before bottling — all aligned with their minimalist, terroir-first ethos.

Würzburg Silvaner 2023 (Weingut am Stein)

Pale straw-green. Opens with aromas of citrus peel, ripe orchard fruits (peach and apple), accented by delicate herbs, floral notes, a hint of anise and a subtle nutty nuance. The palate is fresh, juicy and dry, with vibrant acidity, mineral clarity, and a long finish. A wine with finesse.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Golden torrontés

From Salta’s high-altitude Cafayate Valley comes this striking torrontés from Bodega Nanni, a certified organic, family-run winery with roots going back to 1897.

At 1700 metres above sea level, the intense sun and cool nights shape grapes with vibrant aromatics and fresh acidity. This wine sees 30 days of skin contact, lending structure and a golden hue rarely associated with torrontés. No sulphites added.

Torrontés Skin Contact 2022 (Bodega Nanni)

Golden with amber hints. The nose is fragrant and floral – orange blossom, chamomile and ripe apricot – but there’s also a savoury, tea-like edge. The palate is dry, textured and gently grippy, with flavours of candied citrus peel, dried herbs and a hint of ginger spice.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

From the Juice Asylum

Since taking over Avignonesi in 2009, Virginie Saverys has transformed the estate into one of Tuscany’s leading names in organic and low-intervention viticulture. But she’s also opened the cellar doors to creativity. Sales director Alessio Guidi had long dreamt of making small batches of biodynamic wines with a juicy, free-spirited edge—and with The Juice Asylum, he’s finally been given free rein.

This wine, Il Terzo Grado 2022, is made from organically grown sangiovese (86%) and merlot (14%), sourced from vineyards in Montepulciano and Cortona at 275–375 metres elevation. Soils are a mix of clay, sand, silt and limestone. The grapes were hand-harvested, partly whole-cluster fermented with carbonic maceration, and aged in stainless steel for 6 months. Bottled unfiltered.

The Juice Asylum – Il Terzo Grado 2022 (Classica)

The result is a riot of red berries, peppery spice and wild herbs, lifted by violets, liquorice root and a touch of bitterness. The texture is supple and alive, with juicy tannins and a savoury undercurrent that makes it both gluggable and thought-provoking.

Chill it slightly, serve with grilled quail, game birds or aged cheese—or just drink it with someone who’ll understand the chaos.

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Wine of the Week

1 litre of pure joy

Here is a Tuscan red with a Mediterranean soul, a litre of pure joy.

Ampeleia, based in the coastal hills of Maremma, is the project of Francesco Pascucci, who works according to biodynamic principles with a strong focus on biodiversity and landscape. The vineyards lie between 200 and 600 metres above sea level, influenced by Mediterranean vegetation and cooling sea breezes.

The wine is based on alicante (grenache), complemented by carignan and mourvèdre. Grown organically on sandy soils, the grapes are fermented with native yeasts, given a gentle maceration, and aged for a short time in concrete – a style that emphasises freshness and drinkability.

Unlitro 2023 (Ampeleia)

Pale in colour, it opens with juicy red berries, a touch of wild herbs and a gentle earthy note. Light-bodied, soft and slightly salty – a wine made for long lunches and warm evenings.

Price: Low

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