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Tag: Pico

Wine of the Week

Speaking of the island and the sea

Adega do Vulcão tells the story of a Florentine family who fell in love with the Azorean volcanic islands. What started as a retreat soon turned into a commitment to revive native grape varieties and produce wines influenced by Atlantic winds and volcanic soil.

At the heart of the project are two generations of Italian entrepreneurs with backgrounds in business and marketing. Their work is overseen by Alberto Antonini, the Italian consultant who has guided the project from the outset. 

Cinzia Caiazzo and Gianni Mancassola

The winery, located in São Roque on Pico, is equipped with modern technology. It uses refrigerated concrete tanks and untoasted wood to preserve freshness and texture while allowing the volcanic character to shine through. 

The project spans two islands, Faial and Pico, where approximately 20 hectares of vines are cultivated in two distinct volcanic soil types. The distinctive character of these wines is produced by combining these unique terroirs with the influence of the ocean, latitude and dedicated manual labour. The diversity of the soils is reflected in the wines produced, each with its own unique character.

The Pico seen from Criação Velha

On Pico Island, the vines are cultivated in currais — small plots enclosed by ancient dry-stone walls that protect them from the ocean winds. They are planted in lajido, the lava crust formed over centuries following volcanic eruptions. Production levels are low. 

On Faial, the volcanic ash resulting from the 1957 Capelinhos eruption, has created a unique terroir with an exceptional mineral composition, excellent drainage and a distinctive microclimate, yielding wines of remarkable purity and minerality.

From the black volcanic lajidos of Criação Velha on Pico, this wine is made from predominantly arinto dos açores vines aged 70 to 90 years. The grapes are hand-selected in the vineyard and gently pressed in a vertical press under inert atmosphere, followed by a pre-fermentation maceration and spontaneous fermentation in temperature-controlled cement tulip vats. Aged 12 months on the lees.

Pé do Monte 2021 (Adega do Vulcão)

Pale golden. Aroma of pear and white peach, lime peel, flint and hints of iodine. Medium-bodied with tension, a vibrant acidity and a long salty finish. It really speaks of the island and the sea.

Price: Medium

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Articles

The vineyards of Pico

I am concluding a three-day visit to the breathtaking island of Pico, where vines grow between black volcanic rock walls, protected from the fierce Atlantic winds. This UNESCO-listed landscape tells a story of resilience, tradition, and wines with striking minerality and a taste of the sea.

Every stone wall, every vine, and every bottle speaks of centuries of adaptation and determination. Pico’s wines are not just a product of nature but of human perseverance.

I can explain the technical terms like currais and cañadas—and I will, later. But when it comes to the impression these vineyards leave on me, words fall short. The scarce soil they have was transported from neighboring islands some 500 years ago.

A heartfelt thank you to the producers who welcomed me, sharing their wines, stories, and challenges. A special thanks to João Roseira of Simplesmente Vinho for sending me on this journey, and to Fortunato García from Czar for organising an unforgettable visit. I’ll be back.

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Wine of the Week

The original Pico Verdelho

António Maçanita is perhaps most known from his Fita Preta project in Alentejo, and maybe some have heard about the partnership with his sister Joana in the Douro.

But now, a few words about his work in the AçoresPreservation of the indigenous grape varieties is a key concept. And showing the grapes’, and the terroir’s potential, especially for white wines, is maybe his most important task there.

(photo credit: AWC)

I had just become aware of this project through the Verdelho wine before I left for Portugal. But at the Simplesmente Vinho fair in Porto I had the possibility to meet him. In fact his wine showed up already at the opening dinner.

Here it is. Varietal 100% verdelho. Verdelho, “the original”, this to distinguish it from grapes that have been wrongly confused with it (such as gouveio, godello, verdejo and more).

It was harvested manually. Whole bunch pressing was carried out, natural racking
after 24 hours, and fermentation in 600 to 1000 litre steel tanks. Designation: the Pico sub-region (on the west of the island) within the Açores IG area.

Last words: About the possible confusion between Azores – Açores (on the label you can read both), the former is English, the latter Portuguese.

Verdelho o Original 2016 (Azores Wine Company)

Light yellow, hints of green. Aroma with citrus, yellow apples, herbs, slightly nutty. Clean, fresh, quite full, salty mineral, and long.

Price: Medium

Food: Grilled fish, seafood, salads, perfect with oysters

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