Tag: organic

Structured and saline single plot albariño

Published 13. February 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Zárate is one of Rías Baixas’ historic estates, with records dating back to the 18th century. Today the project is guided by Eulogio Pomares, whose work in Val do Salnés has helped redefine albariño as a serious, terroir-driven wine capable of ageing with grace.

The fruit for Tras da Viña comes from a single vineyard planted in 1970 on decomposed granite soils typical of the Salnés Valley. The Atlantic influence is unmistakable here: humidity, cooling breezes and slow ripening, giving tension and aromatic precision.

The grapes are hand-harvested, fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged for an extended period on fine lees without bâtonnage. The long élevage builds texture and depth while preserving the saline backbone that defines the site.

Tras da Viña 2021 (Zárate)

Pale golden, brilliant. The nose is refined and mineral, with white blossom, lemon peel and a faint herbal edge. On the palate it is taut, layered, with citrus, green apple and crushed stone. It finishes long and saline. Albariño with structure and charm.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Generous Rioja garnacha

Published 6. February 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Víctor Ausejo is based in the village of Alberite, where the river Irégua flows past before joining the Ebro near Logroño. We’re in a transitional zone towards lower Rioja, where garnacha is in fact a key grape, well adapted to heat, drought and alluvial soils.

Everything here is farmed organically, and all work is carried out by hand.

The Los Pepones vineyard lies in the village of Sojuela, at 650 metres above sea level on the foothills of the Moncalvillo mountains. Planted in 1951, it measures just 0.36 hectares. The soils are sandy clay, and the vines are trained as free-standing en vaso, typical of old Spanish vineyards.

The grapes are destemmed and cold-macerated for three days before spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel. The wine is then aged in used French and Hungarian barrels and bottled unfiltered.

Garnacha Tinta 2021 (Víctor Ausejo Viticultor)

Fairly deep red with a bluish rim. Generous, sweet-toned fruit (the alcohol kept just in check), red and dark berries (raspberry, blackberry), flowers, spice and aniseed. Plenty of tannin without aggression, an earthy touch, refreshing acidity, good concentration and length.

Price: High

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Beautiful light-extracted garnacha

Published 30. January 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

From the windswept heights of Valdejalón in Aragón, Frontonio redefines what garnacha can be. Founded by winemaker Fernando Mora and partners, the project focuses on high-altitude vineyards, many of them old bush vines rooted in slate and limestone soils. Extraction is careful; freshness is more important.

La Cerqueta comes from a single, historic vineyard planted at around 600–700 metres above sea level. The vines, trained en vaso (gobelet), are dry-farmed. Fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts, and the wine is aged in large oak foudres and older barrels to preserve purity of fruit and the subtle mineral imprint of the site.

La Cerqueta 2022 (Frontonio)

Beautifully translucent, pale ruby colour with a delicate garnet rim. On the nose, it opens with wild strawberries, redcurrant and crushed pomegranate, followed by dried herbs, white pepper and a distinct stony nuance. The palate is finely etched and vibrant, with bright acidity carrying red berry fruit across a supple texture. Tannins are silky and integrated, and the finish lingers with notes of rosehip, blood orange and a gentle saline touch.

Price: Medium

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From the Mendoza side

Published 23. January 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Here is one of the best value wines from our varietal tasting. It’s a malbec with a lighter touch, drinkability and sense of fun, crafted by winemakers Maricruz Antolin and Liliana Suarez of Bodegas Krontiras.

The grapes come from Luján de Cuyo in Mendoza, grown on alluvial soils. Vines are just over ten years old and densely planted. Fermented and matured without oak, the aim here is immediacy — a malbec styled with a nod to Beaujolais rather than the classic, muscular Mendoza stereotype.

MiKron Malbec 2023 (Bod. Krontiras)

Bright, dark ruby in the glass. The nose is fresh and fruity, packed with blackberries and ripe cherries. On the palate it’s juicy, supple and effortlessly drinkable, with soft tannins and plenty of dark red and black fruit. A proper crushable, porch-pounding red.

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Wine of the Week

From the Cahors side

Published 16. January 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

We are in Cahors, in the French Sud-Oest. Here is a 100% malbec (auxerrois locally) from a single 1.2-hectare parcel beside a cherry orchard. The vines are around 40 years old, planted on red clay over limestone. Certified organic and moving towards biodynamics, with yields kept to 35–40 hl/ha.

At Château Combel la Serre, Julien Ilbert represents a new generation in Cahors. Vines have been in the Ilbert family for generations, though grapes were long sold to the local co-operative. Julien struck out on his own in 1998, and an early collaboration with Mathieu Cosse helped shape his focus on high-quality fruit before he returned fully to producing his own wines in 2005.

Today the estate covers 25 hectares, all planted to malbec across varied terroirs within five kilometres of the cellar. Julien believes it is the only grape suited to his vision for Cahors, deliberately avoiding both traditional blending grapes and fashionable Bordeaux varieties. Organic certification arrived with the 2015 vintage, following a decisive break with chemical farming after the death of his grandfather — a turning point in the family’s approach to agriculture.

The fruit is hand-harvested, mostly destemmed, ferments with indigenous yeasts at cool temperatures in cement, followed by around 20 days of maceration. Aged for 14 months in cement, bottled unfiltered and with minimal sulphur.

The wine was served in our local wine club, at a tasting of malbecs from both sides of the Atlantic. While the Argentinians in general showed more upfront fruit and immediate appeal, the French felt more earthy and grounded, maybe more serious. Both versions were good and often with a good quality for the price.

Au Cerisier 2022 (Combel la Serre)

Deep ruby. Aromas of sour cherry, black plum and violets, with notes of earth and crushed stone. The palate is supple and fresh, fruit-driven, with fine-grained tannins and a cool, savoury finish.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Fitapreta’s Palpite

Published 9. January 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Palpite is a personal wine from Fitapreta, the Alentejo project led by António Maçanita. Based just outside Évora, Fitapreta works with old vineyards, local grape varieties and a deep engagement with the region’s viticultural heritage. Palpite is driven by intuition – the name translates as “hunch”.

The grapes come from Alentejo, with a focus on cooler, higher-lying vineyards that bring definition and balance. Indigenous Portuguese varieties are fermented with care, extraction is measured, and élevage is restrained.

The cork contains the phrase TCA free. I don’t know if this is meant to be a prophecy or if it’s really treated in a special way to protect against cork taint.

Palpite 2022 (Fitapreta)

Bright, translucent ruby in appearance. The nose shows red cherry, wild strawberry and dried Mediterranean herbs, with a subtle savoury edge and gentle spice. On the palate, the wine is fresh and finely textured, with vibrant red fruit, refined tannins and an underlying earthy note. Harmonious and engaging, finishing clean and dry.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Great from slate

Published 26. December 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

One of the defining expressions of high-altitude garnacha from Spain, Pegaso Pizarra comes from very old bush vines planted on steep, slate-rich soils in Cebreros, within the wild mountains of Sierra de Gredos. These vines thrive above 950 m on metamorphic rock, working organically and hand-harvested to capture purity and place — the very essence of this dramatic terroir.

At the heart of this wine is Telmo Rodríguez, one of Spain’s most influential vignerons. For over three decades he has championed forgotten vineyards and traditional viticulture across the country, seeking to restore ancient sites and make wines that speak of history and landscape rather than manipulation. His work with Pegaso (named after a classic Spanish vehicle) helped put Cebreros on the map, revitalising this rugged corner of Castilla y León and focusing on old vines, organic practices and slow, natural winemaking.

Made from 100% garnacha from bush-trained vines over 80 years old, fermentation happens with indigenous yeasts and the wine is aged extensively in a mix of oak barrels (400–500 L).

Pegaso Pizarra 2018 (Telmo Rodríguez)

The wine shows a medium ruby colour with clear garnet and faint brownish tones at the rim, indicating some evolution. On the nose, it is complex and expressive, moving beyond primary fruit. Dried red cherries, wild strawberries and cranberry are joined by Mediterranean herbs, dried flowers and graphite. With air, more savoury notes emerge: leather, tobacco leaf, subtle smoke and a hint of earth. The palate is silky yet structured, with finely grained tannins, herbs and dried fruits, black tea and spice. Acidity is well judged, giving length and clarity, while the finish is long and stony.

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Wine of the Week

Elegant Pommard

Published 12. December 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Pommard is traditionally known for its powerful, structured wines grown on heavy clay soils, often dark-fruited and firmly built. Les Bertins, however, lies in the southern part of the appellation, close to Volnay, where the soils become lighter and more limestone-rich. This shift in geology brings a different expression of Pommard, one that favours lift, elegance and aromatic nuance.

The wine is made by Huber-Verdereau, a family estate based in Meursault and led today by Thiébault Huber. Since taking over, he has steered the domaine firmly towards organic and biodynamic farming, with careful work in the vineyards and a restrained, non-interventionist approach in the cellar. Fermentations are gentle, extraction is measured, and élevage is carried out with a judicious use of oak to support, not shape, the wine.

Pommard Premier Cru Les Bertins 2020 (Huber-Verdereau)

Deep ruby colour with a bright rim, signalling both concentration and freshness. Aroma of ripe red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry, notes of dried herbs, crushed stone and a subtle hint of spice and undergrowth. On the palate it is poised and finely structured, with a core of juicy red fruit framed by chalky, well-integrated tannins. The finish is persistent. It’s a wine with both tension and clarity, combining Pommard’s natural authority with a Volnay-like elegance.

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Wine of the Week

Ungrafted Chilean cinsault

Published 28. November 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

From the ancient granite soils of Chile’s southern Itata valley comes De Martino’s Ungrafted Old Vines Cinsault, sourced from more than 40-year-old bush-trained vines.

Founded in 1934 by Pietro De Martino, the winery is now run by the fourth generation, brothers Marco and Sebastián. De Martino has long been a pioneer in Chile, championing sustainable and organic viticulture and seeking out historic vineyard sites with ungrafted old vines. Their work across Chile’s diverse terroirs has built a reputation for purity and authenticity, with a particular focus on reviving traditional winemaking regions such as Itata.

This cinsault comes from granitic slopes in Guarilihue, and as the name implies it’s planted on original rootstocks. The grapes are gently destemmed, undergo spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, and are aged in neutral vessels to preserve freshness and the natural character of the site.

Itata Ungrafted Old Vines Cinsault 2024 (De Martino)

Pale, translucent ruby in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, pomegranate and wild strawberries, lifted by subtle floral notes and a hint of dried herbs. The palate is bright and supple, driven by lively acidity, fine tannins and a clean, stony finish.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Sacred Santo

Published 14. November 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

At the southern edge of Chianti Classico, near Castelnuovo Berardenga, lies Fèlsina, one of Toscana’s most soulful estates. Founded in 1966, it bridges the classic and the modern with an unwavering respect for tradition — organic farming, old sangiovese vines, and limestone and galestro soils.

Their Vin Santo, made from dried malvasia and trebbiano grapes, follows a time-honoured method. The grapes are hung to dry for months, then pressed and fermented slowly in small caratelli barrels sealed with wax. There, in the quiet of the attic, the wine ages for nearly eight years, developing its complex, oxidative beauty before being bottled — unfiltered and full of character.

Vin Santo 2012 (Fèlsina)

Amber-gold in the glass. The nose opens with dried apricot, roasted almond, and honeyed orange peel. The palate is silky yet vibrant, balancing sweetness with fine acidity and a lingering finish of caramelised nuts and candied fruit. A contemplative wine, best enjoyed slowly, with aged pecorino or an almond biscotto, like we did.

Price: Medium

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