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Textura at Norvald’s

Textura Wines is a relatively new star from the Dão region of Portugal. At the Simplesmente Vinho fair this year I tasted their whole range. Recently Marcelo Araújo visited my region in Norway, and I got a welcome update. Marcelo came to Norvald together with Alexander Sandli from his importer Belmonte Beverage Group.

Marcelo Araújo, Textura

Partners in Textura are Marcelo, and his wife. It was started in 2018 on the slopes of Serra da Estrela. They work 28 ha of organic certified vineyards in Vila Nova de Tazem and Penalva do Castelo. And appropriate for a winery named Textura, in 2020 they acquired an old textile factory in São Paio, in the outskirts of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, that is now renovated and incorporated into the winery. (Read a bit more here.)

At Norvald I tasted three wines. Pura Branco 2022 was produced from old vineyards, and the grape juice fermented in barrels and foudre without temperature control.

Light yellow with green hints. Aroma of yellow fruits, flowers and herbs. Good concentration, quite rich, still with a crisp acidity, with a long and salty aftertaste. A super wine, still in its youth.

Textura da Estrela Jaen 2020 comes from a single vineyard in Vila Nova de Tazem with 28 years old vines in granitic soils. It’s fermented with indigenous yeasts in cement vats, with 35% whole bunches. After the first winter in cement it spent 6 months in a French oak vats.

Ruby red. Aroma of red and dark fruits (cherry, blackberry), white pepper, and a hint of earth. Young tannins, fresh, nicely integrated acidity.

Pura Tinto 2020 is a single vineyard wine from a parcel at 600 meters altitude, with 55 years old vines planted in granite soils. It’s a field blend, the most important varieties being jaen, baga, alfrocheiro, tinto cão and tinta pinheira. The grapes were fermented in a used French oak vat with 40% whole bunches, only with indigenous yeasts. Then followed a post-fermentative maceration for 30 days. It aged for 16 months in a used French oak of various sizes.

Cherry red. Aromas of fresh red red and black fruits (cherry, blackcurrant), herbs and underwood. Full in the mouth, intense with fine tannins, a stimulating acidity and a pronounced mineral, earthy finish. A great wine with many years ahead.

Marcelo Araújo and Alexander Sandli
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Wine of the Week

Dalamára xinomavro

This wine was one of many good wines in a xinomavro tasting in my local wine club last Monday. Xinomavro is the most emblematic grape in the northern part of Greece and is characterized by a light colour and crystalline tannins, not very unlike nebbiolo. The prices are generally sympathetic.

Kostis Dalamára is a sixth-generation winemaker in Naoussa, the historic region of Macedonia. When he took over the family estate in 2010 he introduced organic cultivation, spontaneous fermentation and reduced sulfur dioxide levels. The soil in the area is sandy loam to clay, which comes from former limestone and marl rocks.

The grapes for this wine are de-stemmed and fermented in steel tanks, macerates for some 25 days before being moved to 300-500 liter barrels to mature for 6 months in 10% new oak. The rest is 1-14 year old barrels.

Naossa 2021 (Dalamára)

Ruby red. Aroma of mature strawberries, raspberry, sundried tomato and an earthy note. Medium-bodied, with those signature xinomavro tannins and a nice integrated acidity. It’s more fruity than most, somewhere between rusticity and elegance.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Beautiful Brouilly

Château Thivin dates back to 1877. Today the 6th generation of the Geoffray family runs the estate.

The name of the wine comes from seven plots at Mont Brouilly in Côte de Brouilly, each contributing to the complexity with their various orientations and characteristics.

The soils are dominated by the blue stones of the region, stonier for the highest plots and more clayey for those closer to the foot of the hill.

The wine is made partly with whole bunches and matured in oak tuns for 7 months. Blending is done in the spring.

Côte de Brouilly Les Sept Vignes 2023 (Château Thivin)

Garnet red with bluish hint. Aroma of cherry, blueberry and flowers, with a mineral touch. Round in the mouth with fine tannins, good acidity and a spicy finish.

Price: Medium

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Articles and Wine bars and restaurants

Two Italians at Pergola, Bergen

Pergola is an Italian-inspired wine bar near the center of Bergen, established in 2010 by Bjørn Johnsson. They boast a selection of almost 500 different wines to choose from. You can enjoy a glass with a pizza, with your desired topping, or a plate of antipasti. Among the wines, there is a selection of wines that they import themselves.

I was there with some other musicians after playing at one of the city’s jazz clubs. We had two of their own wines, from Toscana and Piemonte respectively, along with a white prosciutto pizza and charcuterie.

Vallone di Cecione is a small family run organic farm outside Panzano in Chianti. They are proud to offer the canaiolo as a varietal wine. The canaiolo grape is otherwise known for giving a mellow, soft character to a blend, such as the classic Chianti wines. Vallone di Cecione let it ferment in cement to keep the primary fruit characteristics intact.

Canaiolo 2017 (Vallone di Cecione)

Light cherry red. Elegant aroma showing some evolution, with a touch of dried fruits, but also with cherry and herbs. Soft and round, medium acidity, but also some freshness, thanks to a slight touch of CO2. Decent length.

Cascina Ballarin is located in La Morra in the Barolo area. It was run by brothers Giorgio and Giovanni Viberti until 2022, and is now actually called Alberto Ballarin, after Giorgio’s son. They are practicing biodynamics and make the usual selection of wines from the region. This is their varietal dolcetto, based on 15-25 year old vines with an eastern orientation at 230 meters height. The wine is raised in stainless steel. No oak.

Dolcetto d`Alba 2021 (Cascina Ballarin/ Alberto Ballarin)

Ruby red. On the fruity side, with a ripe scent of raspberry, a touch of blackberry and white pepper. Soft and juicy with elegant tannins and a nice acidity.

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Wine of the Week

Morgon Monday

Last Monday my local wine club served a dozen of Morgon wines. Most of them originate from the various climats that make up the appellation. This one is from a small climat called Douby, next to the famous Côte de Py.

Domaine Louis-Claude Desvignes is located in the town Villié-Morgon, that gives name to the Morgon appellation in Beaujolais. Today it’s run by eighth generation, the siblings Claude-Emmanuelle and Louis-Benoît Desvignes. They work their soils in the most natural way possible. No synthetic products are used in the vineyards, and the work in the cellar is carried out with as little intervention as possible.

Their Morgons are made without aging in wood. Instead they spend some time in concrete vats. The macerations depends of the wine. In preparing the tasting I also tried their Morgon Voûte Saint-Vincent. That one is macerated only for ten days and aimed at earlier consumption, while other bottlings see longer macerations.

This wine comes from an 80 year old 1 hectare vineyard in Douby. Here at this place called Château Gaillard the soil is sand and granite. The harvest is manual and the vinification traditional with 10% of the grapes destemmed. Fermentation lasts 10 days, then the wine is aged in cement vats for 7 months.

Morgon Château Gaillard 2021 (Louis Claude Desvignes)

Deep cold cherry colour. Intense aroma of cherry and flowers, with chalk and earth. Quite powerful in the mouth with fresh fruit, an integrated acidity and young fine-grained tannins. I think the 21s in the tasting had benefitted from one year more than the 22s. Still this one is probably at its best after 4-5 more years.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Palo Cortado with personality

This wine was served in a panel tasting of dry sherries for Vinforum magazine.

Bodegas Ximénez-Spínola has since 1729 built its reputation on a single grape variety, namely pedro ximénez, that has always found itself in the shadow of palomino. The current proprietor is José Antonio Zarzana.

Their vineyards between the towns of Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María have chalky chalky albariza soils and are worked organically.

The wine is put together from single vintage casks from 2009, ’13, ’15 and ’19, blended together in 9 new barrels, matured for a year and then bottled. Fermentation was in French oak with wild yeasts, followed by ageing in American oak with some casks developing flor, whilst some not, giving complexity from both biological and oxidative ageing. There has been no fortification. Still it carries the DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, thanks to the new regulations from 2022. Alcoholic fermentation brought it up to15%, then an oxidative ageing and evaporation, resulted in a final 17%.

Palo Cortado Jerez Seco Serie 2 (Ximénez-Spínola)

Beautiful amber colour. Smells of apricot, candied fruits, and lightly fried onions. It’s full and glyceric, in a way fruity, with a saline touch, grapey, long with a nutty finish, and with perfectly integrated alcohol. A complex and generous wine, with lots of personality. Truly memorable.

Price: High

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Wine of the Week

Gorgeous Gorges

The tasting of mature Muscadets in our local wine club slowed once again that the western Loire can produce perfectly balanced wines at very economic prices. This wine was among my favourites in the tasting.

The domain was founded by Michel Brégeon in the 1970’s and run today by Fred Lailler. Today Lailler disposes of 8.5 hectares of vineyards. Some are on gabbro soils, an old, blueish-green, igneous rock that imparts complexity, length, and an intense minerality to the wines. The Gorges cru is particularly known for this soil. All of the domaine’s vineyards are planted here.

The wine, from 70 years old vines, is aged on the lees in underground, glass-lined cuves for more than 2 years.

Gorges 2018 (Dom. Brégeon)

Light golden colour. Aroma of apples, saltwater and a touch of lime. Textured, with a stony minerality, a fresh acidity and good length. Well-balanced.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Remarkable Ribeiro

I visited Luis Anxo Rodríguez Vázquez back 15 years ago or so, and tasted the whole range. I remember well some impressive aged wines. From time to time one stumbles over his wines. This one I found in a shop in Murcia.

Luis concentrates on indigenous grape varieties like treixadura, brancellao and caiño. Today he works 6 hectares in Arnoia, in the DO Ribeiro, comprised of nearly 180 micro-parcels, located on southwestfacing, granitic hillsides. He utilizes native yeasts, low SO2, and practices élevage in steel tank, foudre and mostly used, larger French oak barrels.

The grapes varieties are treixadura, albariño, lado and torrontés. The soils are decomposit granite (called sábrego) with silicium, and the vines up to 25 years old. The grapes were hand-harvested, destemmed and fermented with native yeasts in steel vats, and raised for 10-12 months on lees before bottling with a light clarification (bentonite) and filtration.

Viña de Martín Os Pasás 2021 (Luis Anxo Rodríguez Vázquez)

Light straw-coloured. Fresh aroma of citrus, herbs, quince and balsamic. Medium-bodied with fresh acidity and good power, and a salty mineral finish. The wine just is there, always, without hitting the headlines. But it’s just remarkable.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

A modern Arinto classic

I picked two bottles of this wine from my own cellar to enjoy at private dinners. In both cases it was served blind. It’s made by my good friend Pedro Marques, now a classic producer on the coast of Lisboa.

Marques’ wines come from organically farmed vines in the Lisboa region. The estate is located around eight km from the Atlantic Ocean, on limestone soils rich with fossils. The limestone content contributes to the freshness and saltiness in the wines.

The arinto grapes are spontaneously fermented on the lees at relatively high temperatures (around 18 degrees), as Pedro values texture and body in the wine. He uses barrels in the fermentation and the maturation process, to increase the complexity and make the wine less reductive. This matches well with the grape’s high natural acidity.

Arinto 2017 (Vale da Capucha)

Deep golden colour. Aroma of lemon peel, yellow tomatoes, pickled apricot and a touch of mature apples. Unctuous in the mouth, concentrated and packed with fruit, an acidity that gives it a special nerve, and a long, saline finish. A modern classic that speaks of its homeland near the sea.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Fresh Aire

The last few days have been bakingly hot in Central Spain. So some freshness was needed. I finally got the opportunity to visit my friend Samuel Cano in Mota del Cuervo, Cuenta province. You can read about several of his wines elsewhere on the blog, such as here and here.

We visited La Tarancona vineyard. It sits on clay-calcareous soil at 800 meters elevation, and the vines have an average age of 70 years. The harvest was done at the end of September, after a rainy spring and a very long and hot summer. The grapes were destemmed and placed in a stainless steel tank, where it macerated for 5 days and began the alcoholic fermentation. It was then  passed to a cement tank to finish fermenting and aged on the lees until bottling in March without filtration or stabilization.

Aire en el Patio La Tarancona 2023 (Vinos Patio)

Light golden colour. Yellow apples, mature lime, wax. Juicy with a light dryness, tasty, with a fresh acidity and a saline finish.

Price: Medium

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