Tag: Portugal

Alvarelhão rosé for summer

Published 3. July 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

When people think of Monção and Melgaço, they almost always think of alvarinho. Yet this cool, Atlantic corner of northern Portugal is also home to a number of fascinating indigenous red varieties. One of the most distinctive is alvarelhão – a historic grape that was traditionally used for light, fresh red wines. In recent years, however, a growing number of producers have discovered its remarkable potential for elegant rosés, where its naturally vibrant acidity and delicate red-fruit character come beautifully into focus.

This wine is made by Quinta de Santiago, a family-owned estate with deep roots in Monção. The family farms its vineyards sustainably, with great respect for the local terroir, aiming to produce wines that express purity rather than power. This alvarelhão rosé 2024 is made entirely from alvarelhão, with gentle pressing and careful temperature-controlled fermentation to preserve the grape’s freshness, aromatic purity and vibrant Atlantic character.

Alvarelhão 2024 (Quinta de Santiago)

Brilliant pale salmon with delicate copper highlights. The nose is refined and expressive, offering wild strawberries, raspberries, pink grapefruit, rose petals and a subtle hint of fresh herbs. The palate is dry, crisp and beautifully balanced, combining juicy red berry fruit with citrus freshness and a fine mineral backbone. The finish is long, clean and mouth-watering, making this an irresistible summer rosé and a superb partner for seafood, grilled fish and Mediterranean cuisine.

Price: Low

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Wine of the Week

Varietal Antão Vaz

Published 19. June 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Alentejo may be best known for its powerful reds, but its native white grape antão vaz can be every bit as expressive. Traditionally, antão vaz is known for producing full-bodied wines with generous texture, moderate acidity and aromas that range from citrus and stone fruit to tropical fruits, often with a distinctive herbal and mineral edge. In the warm climate of southern Alentejo, the variety develops richness without losing its characteristic freshness when grown in the right sites.

Antão Vaz da Malhadinha 2023 comes from the rolling schist soils of Albernoa in southern Alentejo. It is produced by Herdade da Malhadinha Nova, one of the region’s pioneering family estates, renowned for combining modern precision with a deep respect for the surrounding landscape and biodiversity.

This single-varietal wine originates from the Peceguina vineyard and is made from hand-harvested grapes picked during the cool early hours of the morning. After careful sorting, the grapes are destemmed, gently pressed and fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks, preserving the purity and character of the fruit. The result is a wine that captures both the generosity of the grape and the freshness of the site.

Antão Vaz da Malhadinha 2023 (Herdade da Malhadinha Nova)

Pale straw yellow in appearance with bright clarity. The nose offers aromas of ripe peach, pear, melon and citrus, accompanied by subtle floral and mineral notes. On the palate it is fresh yet generously textured, with ripe fruit, balanced acidity and a broad, mouth-filling structure. The finish is long, harmonious and persistent, showing both varietal character and elegance.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Great Dão wine

Published 15. May 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

This wine comes from the granite highlands of Portugal’s Dão region. The vineyards lie mainly around Serra da Estrela, where ancient mixed plantings survive on poor granitic soils at elevations reaching 700 metres. Warm days and cool nights preserve acidity, giving the wines their characteristic tension and mineral clarity.

Although raised in Paris, António Madeira returned to his family’s Portuguese roots with a vision of restoring abandoned old vineyards and reviving the traditional identity of the Dão. He has since become one of the region’s most respected growers, working organically and focusing on indigenous grape varieties and historic field blends.

A Liberdade Branco 2021 is sourced from old vineyards planted mainly with native grapes such as encruzado, bical, fernão pires and cerceal. The grapes are harvested by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts. Vinification is deliberately gentle, with ageing carried out partly in older oak barrels and partly in stainless steel in order to preserve both texture and freshness. The wine is bottled with minimal intervention and restrained use of sulphur.

A Liberdade 2021 (A. Madeira)

In the glass, a pale golden colour with light green reflections. The nose combines citrus peel, white peach, fennel, wild herbs and wet granite, along with evident lees ageing. Full on the palate, taut and energetic, balancing subtle texture with vibrant acidity and a distinctly saline mineral finish. A great wine.

Price: Medium

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Simplesmente… Vinho 2026 III – From the rest of Portugal

Published 16. March 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Some highlights from the rest of Portugal.

Constantino Ramos works mainly in Minho, producing super-fresh, often saline wines, both white and red. This time I was particularly impressed by Juca 2024, where chestnut flowers are used instead of sulphur. Dark in colour with a faint bluish tone, the wine shows aromas of both red and darker berries. On the palate it is juicy and lively, with fresh acidity, a lightly saline touch and an extra layer of complexity. The finish is long and energetic.

At Materramenta – where Constantino also consults, working with Luís Vasco – the focus was on wines from three different Azores islands. I chose Materramenta D.O. Biscoitos 2024 a verdelho and arinto dos açores blend from Terceira, where the project has its headquarters. Pale straw in colour, it offers aromas of ripe apple and citrus. The palate is bright and lively, with good acidity and a clear saline note that reflects the Atlantic surroundings.

From Lisboa wine region, Quinta da Serradinha – located near Leiria in the northern part of the region, in the limestone hills of Encostas d’Aire – and António Marques da Cruz showed a range of stylish wines in different colours. Serradinha Branco 2024, made from encruzado and arinto, had 18 hours of skin contact, was fermented in barrels and aged ten months on the lees. The result is golden in colour, with aromas of yellow apple and herbs. The palate is mouthfilling and textured, combining weight with freshness. A second version with a higher proportion of arinto (around 65%) showed a little more acidity and tension.

From the Douro, Grau Baumé – represented here by Hugo Mateus and based around Peso da Régua – presented Undo Alvarinto 2021, a blend of alvarinho and arinto. The wine is light and aromatic, with citrus and floral notes on the nose. On the palate it shows moderate weight, lively acidity and a clean, refreshing finish.

Tiago Sampaio, also from the Douro (and not far away, from around Alijó), poured Uivo Chronológico Ancestral 2018, a pét-nat made from pinot noir. Many people claim that pét-nat cannot age, but Tiago is keen to demonstrate the opposite. The wine is light golden in colour, with subtle brioche notes and fine, well-integrated bubbles. The palate is dry, complex and gastronomic – the kind of sparkling wine that works beautifully at the table.

Finally, from Vidigueira in Alentejo, Natus and Hamilton Reis presented Natus 2023. Vidigueira is known as a white-wine enclave in a region dominated by reds. This roupeiro-antão vaz-gouveio blend shows a light golden colour, with a deep and layered aroma profile. On the palate it is broad and complex, combining ripeness with freshness and a long, balanced finish.

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Simplesmente… Vinho 2026 I – Morrazo and Salnés

Published 9. March 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

This year Simplesmente Vinho highlighted wines from neighbouring Galicia. One of the tastings focused on “iconic wines”, offering a glimpse of the diversity of the region. It also showed that ageing wines over many years can be complicated. Bottles evolve differently, and even well-known wines can show variation. Still, the tasting gave a vivid impression of the Galician vitality. Here are some of my favourite wines from the albariño stronghold.

Antonio Portela never ceases to impress with his wines from the Morrazo peninsular seashore. The maritime influence is unmistakable, bringing a saline freshness that runs through the range. Area Brava, named after the beach, and O Mare Namorado are both strong representatives of his work. Here I chose a wine with plenty of personality that I have not highlighted before: Solpor 2023, a rosé made from tinta femia and fermented in damajuanas. The colour is delicate onion skin or faint peach. The aroma combines strawberry and peach with hints of white orchard fruit. On the palate the wine is light but expressive, with lively acidity carrying the fruit through the finish. The texture is supple and refreshing, and the low alcohol – just 9% – gives it an effortless drinkability.

Then a strong trio from the Val do Salnés subzone of Rías Baixas.

From Nanclares y Prieto, Alberto Nanclares continues to produce super-mineral whites alongside increasingly stylish reds. Soverribas 2024, a parcel wine, is a fine example. It is pale and finely drawn, with aromas of apple and citrus. On the palate it is vibrant and precise, showing lively acidity and a distinct stony minerality that lingers on the finish. The wine feels airy and transparent, yet with enough depth to give it structure.

At Zárate, Eulogio Pomares continues his impressive work with terroir-oriented, mineral wines that emphasise vineyard character. Just before the festival I had an off bottle of Balado, which made it particularly important to see the wine in proper form. This time the 2024 vintage showed beautifully. After three months on lees without bâtonnage, the wine is light in colour yet remarkably intense. The nose is very fresh, while the palate combines concentration with energy, finishing with a clear saline edge that reflects its coastal origin.

Finally, Miguel Alfonso of Pedralonga produces wines of remarkable elegance, both white and red. I have highlighted his “normal” whites before. Marel 2023, aged for a year in amphora, shows a golden colour with a slight amber hue. Aromas of orange peel and dried citrus lead into a deep palate with gentle tannin and a broad, textured finish. Despite the amphora ageing the wine retains clarity and lift, with freshness balancing the richer tones from skin contact.

What these wines share – and what I value most in wines from this part of Galicia – is their mineral, fresh and subtly saline style. The Atlantic presence is unmistakable, giving the wines both tension and drinkability, and tying together very different interpretations of the region’s vineyards.

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Wine of the Week

Fitapreta’s Palpite

Published 9. January 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Palpite is a personal wine from Fitapreta, the Alentejo project led by António Maçanita. Based just outside Évora, Fitapreta works with old vineyards, local grape varieties and a deep engagement with the region’s viticultural heritage. Palpite is driven by intuition – the name translates as “hunch”.

The grapes come from Alentejo, with a focus on cooler, higher-lying vineyards that bring definition and balance. Indigenous Portuguese varieties are fermented with care, extraction is measured, and élevage is restrained.

The cork contains the phrase TCA free. I don’t know if this is meant to be a prophecy or if it’s really treated in a special way to protect against cork taint.

Palpite 2022 (Fitapreta)

Bright, translucent ruby in appearance. The nose shows red cherry, wild strawberry and dried Mediterranean herbs, with a subtle savoury edge and gentle spice. On the palate, the wine is fresh and finely textured, with vibrant red fruit, refined tannins and an underlying earthy note. Harmonious and engaging, finishing clean and dry.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

True Ruby

Published 19. December 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

If there’s one thing Dirk Niepoort loves, it’s breaking the rules—especially when it makes wine more fun. Enter Trudy the True Ruby, a fresh and dangerously drinkable ruby port that refuses to be boxed into tradition. And because this is part of Niepoort’s Nat’Cool series, it means that it comes in a full liter bottle.

Niepoort has been a pillar of the port world since 1842, but under Dirk Niepoort’s leadership, the house has gone beyond the classic fortified styles. His love for fresh, lighter, and more immediate wines has led to projects like Nat’Cool, a series of low-intervention wines that emphasize drinkability over prestige.

And Trudy? Well, she’s the first port in the Nat’Cool lineup. A cool ruby port? Sounds like an oxymoron, but somehow, it works.

Unlike many ruby ports that are designed to be syrupy, heavy, Trudy is all about freshness. The grapes, sourced from old vineyards in the Cima Corgo, are foot-trodden in traditional lagares. Fermentation is natural, and the wine is aged in large wooden vats to preserve its bright, juicy fruit.

Pour yourself a glass (or a generous mug, no judgment), and Trudy glows with a deep, vibrant red—like a ruby catching the light. The nose bursts with fresh blackberries, cherries, and plums, with hints of violets, dark chocolate, and just a whisper of spice.

Take a sip, and you’ll see why she’s Nat’Cool. The sweetness is perfectly balanced by lively acidity, making it an easy sipper whether served slightly chilled or at room temperature.

The name Trudy the True Ruby sounds like it belongs to a jazz singer in a smoky club, or maybe that fun aunt who always has the best stories and an oversized glass in her hand. Either way, she’s got personality—and she’s not afraid to take up space.

So whether she ends up on the Christmas table, by the fire, or slipped casually into a late-night gathering, Trudy is there to remind us that tradition can be playful too.
Happy Christmas – and may your holidays be bright, generous, and just a little bit Nat’Cool.

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Wine of the Week

Fresh from a talha

Published 31. October 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

This is the last of a trilogy of white wines from Alentejo. Between Vidigueira and Cuba, Herdade do Rocim has become a key ambassador for vinho de talha — wine made in traditional clay amphorae, a method introduced by the Romans more than two millennia ago. The estate not only keeps this ancient practice alive but also celebrates it as the organiser of the annual Amphora Wine Day festival, dedicated entirely to talha wines.

This wine forms part of the Nat Cool movement — a collective promoting natural, authentic, and minimally handled wines. Under this banner, producers craft wines that express place and personality: low in alcohol, high in drinkability, and always sold in a generous one-litre bottle. Sustainability and transparency lie at the heart of the concept.

The wine is made from 100% rabo de ovelha, organically grown and fermented with native yeasts in clay amphora.

Fresh From Amphora 2024 (Herdade do Rocim)

Pale golden yellow. Aromas of stone fruit and delicate flowers. Medium-bodied with lively citrus flavours, crisp acidity and a gently textured finish. Vibrant and refreshing.

Price: Low

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Wine of the Week

Clockwork orange wine

Published 24. October 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

From the ever-restless mind of António Maçanita, this is not your typical Alentejo white. Fitapreta is based at the restored Paço do Morgado de Oliveira, just outside Évora, where schist and granite soils at 400 metres bring freshness to the region’s natural warmth. Maçanita’s project has long been about rediscovering the forgotten grapes and traditions of southern Portugal – and giving them a contemporary voice.

A Laranja Mecânica (“The Clockwork Orange”) is a field blend from old vines, fermented on its skins for around 40 days and aged in used barrels. The grapes – including roupeiro, rabo de ovelha, tamarez, alicante branco and antão vaz – are handled with minimal intervention and no filtration.

A Laranja Mecânica 2023 (António Maçanita, Fitapreta)

In the glass it’s deep amber ans slightly cloudy. Aromas of dried apricot, orange peel, chamomile and wild herbs, followed by a textured palate where grip meets juiciness. Saline, slightly bitter and very drinkable, full of sun and nerve.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Vidigueira white

Published 17. October 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

This is the first of a trilogy about white wines from Alentejo.

Since taking over from her parents Carrie and Hans in 2019, Anna Jørgensen has reimagined the family estate as a living ecosystem — a polyculture where vines, olive trees, cork forest and grazing animals coexist. Farming is now regenerative and biodynamic in practice, with an emphasis on soil health, biodiversity and water preservation in this increasingly arid region.

This wine comes from a selection of the estate’s best vineyards across two sites. Alvarinho and sauvignon blanc are sourced from the coastal vineyards at Vila Nova de Milfontes, just three kilometres from the Atlantic, while the viognier comes from the inland vineyards at Vidigueira, grown on clay and limestone soils. Fermentation took place with native yeasts — partly in stainless steel for freshness, partly in neutral oak for texture — followed by ageing on fine lees to enhance complexity.

Branco 2023 (Cortes de Cima)

Straw yellow in colour. Subtle aromas of green apple, fennel and wild herbs. The palate is bright and balanced, with fresh acidity, fine minerality and good length.

Price: Medium

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