The name Mon Coeur – “my heart” – is not chosen lightly. This cuvée is Jean-Louis Chave’s personal tribute to the southern Rhône.
The blend is dominated by grenache with syrah and mourvèdre, sourced from vineyards around Vinsobres, Visan and neighbouring villages. Fermentation is followed by ageing in a combination of concrete and large oak casks.
The wine was enjoyed in Madrid, at La Caníbal of Lavapiés, and fitted perfectly with their take on the Beef Wellington.
Mon Coeur 2023(Jean-Louis Chave)
Deep ruby with a youthful purple rim. Generous aromas of dark cherries, blackberries and crushed herbs, with a touch of pepper and garrigue. The palate is supple yet structured, with ripe fruit, fresh acidity and finely grained tannins that give the wine both charm and depth.
This is a wine with warmth and a sense of terroir, a southern Rhône seen through the lens of one of the valley’s most thoughtful producers. A bottle that proves how much character can live within the humble designation Côtes du Rhône.
We are in Cahors, in the French Sud-Oest. Here is a 100% malbec (auxerrois locally) from a single 1.2-hectare parcel beside a cherry orchard. The vines are around 40 years old, planted on red clay over limestone. Certified organic and moving towards biodynamics, with yields kept to 35–40 hl/ha.
At Château Combel la Serre, Julien Ilbert represents a new generation in Cahors. Vines have been in the Ilbert family for generations, though grapes were long sold to the local co-operative. Julien struck out on his own in 1998, and an early collaboration with Mathieu Cosse helped shape his focus on high-quality fruit before he returned fully to producing his own wines in 2005.
Today the estate covers 25 hectares, all planted to malbec across varied terroirs within five kilometres of the cellar. Julien believes it is the only grape suited to his vision for Cahors, deliberately avoiding both traditional blending grapes and fashionable Bordeaux varieties. Organic certification arrived with the 2015 vintage, following a decisive break with chemical farming after the death of his grandfather — a turning point in the family’s approach to agriculture.
The fruit is hand-harvested, mostly destemmed, ferments with indigenous yeasts at cool temperatures in cement, followed by around 20 days of maceration. Aged for 14 months in cement, bottled unfiltered and with minimal sulphur.
The wine was served in our local wine club, at a tasting of malbecs from both sides of the Atlantic. While the Argentinians in general showed more upfront fruit and immediate appeal, the French felt more earthy and grounded, maybe more serious. Both versions were good and often with a good quality for the price.
Au Cerisier 2022 (Combel la Serre)
Deep ruby. Aromas of sour cherry, black plum and violets, with notes of earth and crushed stone. The palate is supple and fresh, fruit-driven, with fine-grained tannins and a cool, savoury finish.
Yann Bertrand is based in Fleurie, in the heart of Beaujolais, where he farms old gamay vines on granitic soils. The family estate is located just outside the village itself, with vineyards spread across Fleurie and a small holding in neighbouring Morgon. Vine age ranges from around 30 to well over 100 years.
Although he grew up in a winemaking family, Bertrand did not initially plan to become a vigneron. After studying commerce and spending several years working in wine bars and shops in the Alps, he returned to Beaujolais and gradually took over the family domaine, founded by his grandfather in the 1950s and developed further by his parents from the 1970s onwards.
The vineyards were converted to organic farming in the early 1990s, and Yann has since pushed the estate further towards biodynamics and low-intervention winemaking. He works exclusively with native yeasts, whole clusters and minimal or no added sulphur. The aim is not to chase power or extraction, but to express Fleurie through finesse, energy and transparency.
Credit: Les Bertrand
Today I have tasted three of his cuvees.
Phénix 2023
This cuvée comes from high-altitude, granitic parcels in Fleurie, where shallow soils and old vines naturally favour finesse and mineral tension. It’s vinified with whole clusters and gentle extraction, and aged in large, neutral oak.
Cherry red with a blue rim. Fruity and floral on the nose, with raspberry and cherry and gentle volatile acidity. Juicy on the palate, with fine tannins, good acidity and a clear mineral line. Light-bodied but precise, with a fresh, persistent finish.
Note: Yann Bertrand works consistently with very low sulphur. In this wine and Alice 6/10, I feel that he is balancing close to mousiness, but he lands on the right side, with fruit, acidity and mineral structure clearly in control.
Coup de Foudre 2023
Coup de Foudre is drawn from selected Fleurie parcels that give slightly more structure and mid-palate presence. While the approach remains low-intervention and whole-cluster based, this cuvée is shaped to show more depth and grip than Phénix.
Light cherry red. Raspberry and cherry aromas with a herbal edge. Very smooth on the palate, with good natural acidity and an understated mineral backbone. Harmonious and easy to drink, yet firmly rooted in its terroir.
Alice 6/10 2022
This is a personal cuvée, named after Bertrand’s partner Alice and referencing the six out of ten recent vintages affected by hail. It combines semi-carbonic fermentation with a proportion of direct press, followed by élevage in old barrels only, resulting in a wine of greater complexity and a touch of seriousness.
Light cherry red. Raspberry and cherry on the nose, with herbal nuances, and a slight touch of volatile. Fine tannins and good acidity frame a distinct mineral core, leading to a finish of good length. Balanced and composed, with both immediate charm and the structure to evolve further in bottle.
Pommard is traditionally known for its powerful, structured wines grown on heavy clay soils, often dark-fruited and firmly built. Les Bertins, however, lies in the southern part of the appellation, close to Volnay, where the soils become lighter and more limestone-rich. This shift in geology brings a different expression of Pommard, one that favours lift, elegance and aromatic nuance.
The wine is made by Huber-Verdereau, a family estate based in Meursault and led today by Thiébault Huber. Since taking over, he has steered the domaine firmly towards organic and biodynamic farming, with careful work in the vineyards and a restrained, non-interventionist approach in the cellar. Fermentations are gentle, extraction is measured, and élevage is carried out with a judicious use of oak to support, not shape, the wine.
Pommard Premier Cru Les Bertins 2020(Huber-Verdereau)
Deep ruby colour with a bright rim, signalling both concentration and freshness. Aroma of ripe red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry, notes of dried herbs, crushed stone and a subtle hint of spice and undergrowth. On the palate it is poised and finely structured, with a core of juicy red fruit framed by chalky, well-integrated tannins. The finish is persistent. It’s a wine with both tension and clarity, combining Pommard’s natural authority with a Volnay-like elegance.
Beaujolais Nouveau Day was yesterday — the annual Thursday in November when the first wines of the new vintage are released. Once a marketing spectacle, it now serves more quietly as a seasonal marker of early fruit and immediacy.
One estate that approaches the style with clarity and intent is Château Cambon, founded in 1995 by Marcel and Marie Lapierre together with Jean-Claude Chanudet. Their aim was to bring the Lapierre philosophy — organic farming, old vines, delicate extraction and minimal intervention — into a separate project focused on purity rather than prestige. Today the estate continues in the same spirit, producing wines that are understated, bright and free of ornament.
The label illustration is signed Siné — Maurice Sinet — the influential French caricaturist known for his sharply satirical line and long association with Charlie Hebdo. His irreverent, uncluttered style fits the wine surprisingly well: playful, direct and never weighed down.
Beaujolais Nouveau 2025 (Château Cambon)
Medium red with a hint of purple. Aromas of raspberry and freshly cut grass. Juicy and quenching on the palate, with fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins giving just enough shape without adding weight.
I was at Angelita Madrid tonight — that temple of thoughtful wine and serious cooking — and was served a glass of La Mariole 2022 with a beautifully succulent dish of Iberian pork neck. The pairing was spot-on: the wine’s lifted fruit and fresh acidity cut through the richness of the meat like a blade, while its earthy undertones echoed the depth of flavour in the dish.
La Mariole is a wine from Domaine LaDogar, located in the Minervois region of Languedoc in southern France. This is rugged land: Mediterranean scrub, garrigue, old stones and sun-drenched vineyards. Historically known for powerful, sometimes rustic reds, the best producers today are offering something much more nuanced — and this bottle is a great example of that shift.
Domaine LaDogar is a relatively small, low-intervention project that works primarily with native grape varieties and aims for purity and drinkability. La Mariole 2022 is made from carignan, sourced from old vines planted on limestone soils. The grapes are fermented with native yeasts and see a short maceration, followed by élevage in concrete tanks. The aim is clearly to preserve the brightness and vitality of the fruit, rather than to impose any heavy-handed structure.
La Mariole 2022(Dom. LaDogar)
Medium dark. Aroma of wild cherries, redcurrants, a touch of violet and a characteristic herbal lift. On the palate, it’s light-bodied but tense, with juicy acidity, fine tannins and a stony, mineral backbone. No oak, no pretence — just pure, energetic fruit with a salty edge.
Price: Low
Food: With the pork, it sang. The slight gaminess of the meat brought out the savoury side of the wine, while the fat was kept in check by the wine’s cleansing freshness. Can work with a variety of light meat and green dishes.
This is a wine from the hills of Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Château Joanin Bécot is led by Juliette Bécot, daughter of Gérard Bécot of Château Beau-Séjour Bécot in Saint-Émilion. In 2001 Juliette acquired this 14-hectare estate in Castillon. Her vision was clear: to produce wines that marry the elegance of Saint-Émilion with the unique attributes of Castillon’s terroir.
The vineyards, averaging 40 years in age, are planted predominantly with merlot, complemented by cabernet franc. The 2021 vintage, comprising 85% merlot and 15% cabernet franc, benefited from meticulous vineyard management and a commitment to sustainable practices. The wine underwent fermentation in temperature-controlled vats, followed by ageing in French oak barrels, balancing new and seasoned wood to enhance complexity without overshadowing the fruit.
Château Joanin Bécot 2021(Juliette Bécot)
Deep ruby hue. Expressive nose of ripe cherries, blackberries, and hints of tobacco. Medium-bodied with good fruit and acidity. Flavours of plum, coffee, and light tobacco emerge, and fine, polished tannins that lead to a savoury finish. A lot of charm and character.
In the Aveyron region, nestled within the rolling hills of Marcillac, lies Domaine Matha—a family-run estate that has been producing expressive wines since the early 1980s.
Situated in the village of Bruéjouls, the domaine is helmed by Jean-Luc Matha, who inherited his passion for viticulture from his father, Alban. The estate spans 15 hectares of terraced vineyards, locally known as “banquettes,” which Jean-Luc has meticulously restored to combat erosion and facilitate safer cultivation. Committed to organic farming, the estate has eschewed chemical treatments for over a decade, relying instead on natural remedies like copper, sulfur, and herbal infusions.
Marcillac is a small appellation in southwest France, characterized by its iron-rich red soils and steep slopes. The region’s unique terroir imparts a distinct minerality to its wines, predominantly made from the indigenous fer servadou grape, locally referred to as mansois.
Réveille-Moi is made from 100% fer servadou grapes, harvested from vines averaging 45 years in age. The wine undergoes traditional vinification, is bottled unfiltered, and sees minimal sulfur addition.
Réveille-Moi 2021(Dom. Matha)
Deep red with bluish tints. Slightly developed and peppery aroma of cherries, redcurrants, and raspberries, complemented by hints of olives, flowers, and cool herbs. On the palate it’s firm, fruity, and spicy, showcasing flavors of dark berries, redcurrants, and green herbs, with subtle notes of olives, and balsamic.
In the world of natural wines, La Sorga is a classic. Based in Montagnac, Languedoc, France, Anthony Tortul has been crafting expressive, zero-sulphite wines since 2008. His approach involves sourcing grapes from organic and biodynamic vineyards, focusing on the unique terroir of each site.
This wine was enjoyed at Tempo wine bar in Sandnes, Norway. I didn’t find the vintage on the label, bur the lot number suggests 2023, which seems probable. The Boyfriend is an orange wine that exemplifies Anthony’s commitment and style. This cuvée is a blend of grenache blanc, muscat of alexandria, and marsanne.
The grapes undergo skin maceration, resulting in a deep orange hue and a complex flavour profile.
The Boyfriend 2023 (La Sorga)
Deep orange. Intense aromas of clementine, tropical fruits like pineapple and mango, and a hint of grapefruit, complemented by floral notes and subtle spice. Juicy in the mouth, dry with soft tannins and a lingering mineral finish. Approachable and fun at 11°.
The Muscadet region has long been synonymous with light, seafood-friendly whites, but a quiet revolution has taken place over the past couple of decades. Producers are now drawing attention to the age-worthiness and complexity that melon de bourgogne can offer—especially when rooted in the right soils and afforded patient lees ageing.
Clisson is one of the cru villages of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, its wines defined by the granite soils and long ageing on fine lees. For a cru Clisson, the regulations demand at least 24 months of lees contact. Ollivier-Cottencau take this one step further. This 2018 vintage spent no less than 42 months on the lees before bottling, allowing the wine to gain both depth and texture.
Ollivier-Cottencau is a collaboration between two families with deep roots in the region. The estate, situated in Maisdon-sur-Sèvre, is now in the hands of the younger generation, who have embraced organic farming and a low-intervention approach in the cellar. Their wines reflect a respect for both tradition and terroir, with a particular focus on long ageing.
Over time, the lees (yeast cells) break down and release compounds that contribute to the wine’s mouthfeel and aromatic complexity. The result is a wine that bears little resemblance to the brisk, saline Muscadet of old. Instead, Clisson 2018 presents a broader, more layered profile, while retaining the hallmark tension and freshness of the region.
Clisson 2018(Ollivier-Cottencau)
Golden hue. Aroma of dried herbs, crushed stone, and ripe lemon peel, underscored by a light nuttiness from the lees. On the palate, the wine is taut yet textural, with a saline core wrapped in notes of orchard fruit and a gentle smokiness. Long finish, with a subtle grip that speaks of granite and time. A wine for the table—and for contemplation.
