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From the Cahors side

Published 16. January 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

We are in Cahors, in the French Sud-Oest. Here is a 100% malbec (auxerrois locally) from a single 1.2-hectare parcel beside a cherry orchard. The vines are around 40 years old, planted on red clay over limestone. Certified organic and moving towards biodynamics, with yields kept to 35–40 hl/ha.

At Château Combel la Serre, Julien Ilbert represents a new generation in Cahors. Vines have been in the Ilbert family for generations, though grapes were long sold to the local co-operative. Julien struck out on his own in 1998, and an early collaboration with Mathieu Cosse helped shape his focus on high-quality fruit before he returned fully to producing his own wines in 2005.

Today the estate covers 25 hectares, all planted to malbec across varied terroirs within five kilometres of the cellar. Julien believes it is the only grape suited to his vision for Cahors, deliberately avoiding both traditional blending grapes and fashionable Bordeaux varieties. Organic certification arrived with the 2015 vintage, following a decisive break with chemical farming after the death of his grandfather — a turning point in the family’s approach to agriculture.

The fruit is hand-harvested, mostly destemmed, ferments with indigenous yeasts at cool temperatures in cement, followed by around 20 days of maceration. Aged for 14 months in cement, bottled unfiltered and with minimal sulphur.

The wine was served in our local wine club, at a tasting of malbecs from both sides of the Atlantic. While the Argentinians in general showed more upfront fruit and immediate appeal, the French felt more earthy and grounded, maybe more serious. Both versions were good and often with a good quality for the price.

Au Cerisier 2022 (Combel la Serre)

Deep ruby. Aromas of sour cherry, black plum and violets, with notes of earth and crushed stone. The palate is supple and fresh, fruit-driven, with fine-grained tannins and a cool, savoury finish.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Fitapreta’s Palpite

Published 9. January 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Palpite is a personal wine from Fitapreta, the Alentejo project led by António Maçanita. Based just outside Évora, Fitapreta works with old vineyards, local grape varieties and a deep engagement with the region’s viticultural heritage. Palpite is driven by intuition – the name translates as “hunch”.

The grapes come from Alentejo, with a focus on cooler, higher-lying vineyards that bring definition and balance. Indigenous Portuguese varieties are fermented with care, extraction is measured, and élevage is restrained.

The cork contains the phrase TCA free. I don’t know if this is meant to be a prophecy or if it’s really treated in a special way to protect against cork taint.

Palpite 2022 (Fitapreta)

Bright, translucent ruby in appearance. The nose shows red cherry, wild strawberry and dried Mediterranean herbs, with a subtle savoury edge and gentle spice. On the palate, the wine is fresh and finely textured, with vibrant red fruit, refined tannins and an underlying earthy note. Harmonious and engaging, finishing clean and dry.

Price: Medium

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Articles

An introduction to Yann Bertrand

Published 2. January 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Yann Bertrand is based in Fleurie, in the heart of Beaujolais, where he farms old gamay vines on granitic soils. The family estate is located just outside the village itself, with vineyards spread across Fleurie and a small holding in neighbouring Morgon. Vine age ranges from around 30 to well over 100 years.

Although he grew up in a winemaking family, Bertrand did not initially plan to become a vigneron. After studying commerce and spending several years working in wine bars and shops in the Alps, he returned to Beaujolais and gradually took over the family domaine, founded by his grandfather in the 1950s and developed further by his parents from the 1970s onwards.

The vineyards were converted to organic farming in the early 1990s, and Yann has since pushed the estate further towards biodynamics and low-intervention winemaking. He works exclusively with native yeasts, whole clusters and minimal or no added sulphur. The aim is not to chase power or extraction, but to express Fleurie through finesse, energy and transparency.

Today I have tasted three of his cuvees.

Phénix 2023

This cuvée comes from high-altitude, granitic parcels in Fleurie, where shallow soils and old vines naturally favour finesse and mineral tension. It’s vinified with whole clusters and gentle extraction, and aged in large, neutral oak.

Cherry red with a blue rim. Fruity and floral on the nose, with raspberry and cherry and gentle volatile acidity. Juicy on the palate, with fine tannins, good acidity and a clear mineral line. Light-bodied but precise, with a fresh, persistent finish.

Note: Yann Bertrand works consistently with very low sulphur. In this wine and Alice 6/10, I feel that he is balancing close to mousiness, but he lands on the right side, with fruit, acidity and mineral structure clearly in control.

Coup de Foudre 2023

Coup de Foudre is drawn from selected Fleurie parcels that give slightly more structure and mid-palate presence. While the approach remains low-intervention and whole-cluster based, this cuvée is shaped to show more depth and grip than Phénix.

Light cherry red. Raspberry and cherry aromas with a herbal edge. Very smooth on the palate, with good natural acidity and an understated mineral backbone. Harmonious and easy to drink, yet firmly rooted in its terroir.

Alice 6/10 2022

This is a personal cuvée, named after Bertrand’s partner Alice and referencing the six out of ten recent vintages affected by hail. It combines semi-carbonic fermentation with a proportion of direct press, followed by élevage in old barrels only, resulting in a wine of greater complexity and a touch of seriousness.

Light cherry red. Raspberry and cherry on the nose, with herbal nuances, and a slight touch of volatile. Fine tannins and good acidity frame a distinct mineral core, leading to a finish of good length. Balanced and composed, with both immediate charm and the structure to evolve further in bottle.

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Wine of the Week

Sparkler for a New Year

Published 2. January 2026 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

This wine became my first sparkler, as the fireworks lit the sky and the year changed beneath them.

1701 represents a conscious revival of an estate with more than 300 years of documented history in Franciacorta (hence the name). The project was initiated by siblings Federico and Silvia Stefini, whose shared commitment to wine, nature and their home territory has shaped the estate from the outset.

Their ambition was clear: to work according to organic and biodynamic principles, placing nature at the centre of every decision. Today, the family owns ten hectares of vineyards, eight planted with chardonnay and two with pinot noir. In 2016 1701 became the first biodynamically certified winery in Franciacorta, and remains the only one to this day.

For Federico and Silvia, biodynamics is not merely a farming method but a holistic philosophy of life. The aim is always to create the conditions in which the grapes can realise their full potential while expressing their origin with clarity and precision. They describe their wines as natural, made without chemical inputs, additives or synthetic treatments in either vineyard or cellar.

Grapes are hand-harvested and rigorously selected, followed by fermentation in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts. The wines are made according to the traditional method, with a minimum of 30 months ageing on the lees. Remuage is carried out by hand, disgorgement dates are clearly stated on the bottle, and there is no dosage. Annual production is approximately 40,000 bottles.

Franciacorta Brut Nature n/v (Soc. Agr. 1701)

Pale straw with a subtle golden hue; fine, persistent mousse. Aroma of lemon zest, green apple and white flowers, underpinned by crushed stone and a touch of toasted almond. Bone-dry in the mouth, tightly structured, driven by bright acidity and chalky minerality. Subtle autolytic notes add depth, leading to a long, saline and precise finish.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Great from slate

Published 26. December 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

One of the defining expressions of high-altitude garnacha from Spain, Pegaso Pizarra comes from very old bush vines planted on steep, slate-rich soils in Cebreros, within the wild mountains of Sierra de Gredos. These vines thrive above 950 m on metamorphic rock, working organically and hand-harvested to capture purity and place — the very essence of this dramatic terroir.

At the heart of this wine is Telmo Rodríguez, one of Spain’s most influential vignerons. For over three decades he has championed forgotten vineyards and traditional viticulture across the country, seeking to restore ancient sites and make wines that speak of history and landscape rather than manipulation. His work with Pegaso (named after a classic Spanish vehicle) helped put Cebreros on the map, revitalising this rugged corner of Castilla y León and focusing on old vines, organic practices and slow, natural winemaking.

Made from 100% garnacha from bush-trained vines over 80 years old, fermentation happens with indigenous yeasts and the wine is aged extensively in a mix of oak barrels (400–500 L).

Pegaso Pizarra 2018 (Telmo Rodríguez)

The wine shows a medium ruby colour with clear garnet and faint brownish tones at the rim, indicating some evolution. On the nose, it is complex and expressive, moving beyond primary fruit. Dried red cherries, wild strawberries and cranberry are joined by Mediterranean herbs, dried flowers and graphite. With air, more savoury notes emerge: leather, tobacco leaf, subtle smoke and a hint of earth. The palate is silky yet structured, with finely grained tannins, herbs and dried fruits, black tea and spice. Acidity is well judged, giving length and clarity, while the finish is long and stony.

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Wine of the Week

True Ruby

Published 19. December 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

If there’s one thing Dirk Niepoort loves, it’s breaking the rules—especially when it makes wine more fun. Enter Trudy the True Ruby, a fresh and dangerously drinkable ruby port that refuses to be boxed into tradition. And because this is part of Niepoort’s Nat’Cool series, it means that it comes in a full liter bottle.

Niepoort has been a pillar of the port world since 1842, but under Dirk Niepoort’s leadership, the house has gone beyond the classic fortified styles. His love for fresh, lighter, and more immediate wines has led to projects like Nat’Cool, a series of low-intervention wines that emphasize drinkability over prestige.

And Trudy? Well, she’s the first port in the Nat’Cool lineup. A cool ruby port? Sounds like an oxymoron, but somehow, it works.

Unlike many ruby ports that are designed to be syrupy, heavy, Trudy is all about freshness. The grapes, sourced from old vineyards in the Cima Corgo, are foot-trodden in traditional lagares. Fermentation is natural, and the wine is aged in large wooden vats to preserve its bright, juicy fruit.

Pour yourself a glass (or a generous mug, no judgment), and Trudy glows with a deep, vibrant red—like a ruby catching the light. The nose bursts with fresh blackberries, cherries, and plums, with hints of violets, dark chocolate, and just a whisper of spice.

Take a sip, and you’ll see why she’s Nat’Cool. The sweetness is perfectly balanced by lively acidity, making it an easy sipper whether served slightly chilled or at room temperature.

The name Trudy the True Ruby sounds like it belongs to a jazz singer in a smoky club, or maybe that fun aunt who always has the best stories and an oversized glass in her hand. Either way, she’s got personality—and she’s not afraid to take up space.

So whether she ends up on the Christmas table, by the fire, or slipped casually into a late-night gathering, Trudy is there to remind us that tradition can be playful too.
Happy Christmas – and may your holidays be bright, generous, and just a little bit Nat’Cool.

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Wine of the Week

Elegant Pommard

Published 12. December 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Pommard is traditionally known for its powerful, structured wines grown on heavy clay soils, often dark-fruited and firmly built. Les Bertins, however, lies in the southern part of the appellation, close to Volnay, where the soils become lighter and more limestone-rich. This shift in geology brings a different expression of Pommard, one that favours lift, elegance and aromatic nuance.

The wine is made by Huber-Verdereau, a family estate based in Meursault and led today by Thiébault Huber. Since taking over, he has steered the domaine firmly towards organic and biodynamic farming, with careful work in the vineyards and a restrained, non-interventionist approach in the cellar. Fermentations are gentle, extraction is measured, and élevage is carried out with a judicious use of oak to support, not shape, the wine.

Pommard Premier Cru Les Bertins 2020 (Huber-Verdereau)

Deep ruby colour with a bright rim, signalling both concentration and freshness. Aroma of ripe red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry, notes of dried herbs, crushed stone and a subtle hint of spice and undergrowth. On the palate it is poised and finely structured, with a core of juicy red fruit framed by chalky, well-integrated tannins. The finish is persistent. It’s a wine with both tension and clarity, combining Pommard’s natural authority with a Volnay-like elegance.

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Wine of the Week

Friedrich Schatz’ Acinipo

Published 5. December 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Friedrich Schatz is one of the great figures of Andalucía’s modern wine story. A German who arrived in the Serranía de Ronda in the early 1980s, he planted varieties that were then unheard of in the area and worked organically long before it became fashionable. His estate lies in the cool, high-altitude folds north of Ronda, where limestone soils and Atlantic influence create conditions quite unlike the Andalucía most people imagine.

Acinipo 2017 is made entirely from lemberger (blaufränkisch), a variety Schatz has championed with remarkable consistency. The fruit is farmed organically at around 600–700 metres, fermented with native yeasts and aged with a gentle hand to foreground the grape’s natural lift and the site. No unnecessary extraction, no over-seasoned oak – just an honest expression of place.

Acinipo 2017 (Bodega F. Schatz)

Deep, vibrant ruby with a slight garnet hue at the rim. The nose is bright yet brooding, offering sour cherry, redcurrant and dark raspberry, with subtle herbs and a mineral undertow. The palate is energetic and finely structured, carried by limestone-driven tannins and a cool, mouthwatering finish.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Ungrafted Chilean cinsault

Published 28. November 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

From the ancient granite soils of Chile’s southern Itata valley comes De Martino’s Ungrafted Old Vines Cinsault, sourced from more than 40-year-old bush-trained vines.

Founded in 1934 by Pietro De Martino, the winery is now run by the fourth generation, brothers Marco and Sebastián. De Martino has long been a pioneer in Chile, championing sustainable and organic viticulture and seeking out historic vineyard sites with ungrafted old vines. Their work across Chile’s diverse terroirs has built a reputation for purity and authenticity, with a particular focus on reviving traditional winemaking regions such as Itata.

This cinsault comes from granitic slopes in Guarilihue, and as the name implies it’s planted on original rootstocks. The grapes are gently destemmed, undergo spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, and are aged in neutral vessels to preserve freshness and the natural character of the site.

Itata Ungrafted Old Vines Cinsault 2024 (De Martino)

Pale, translucent ruby in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, pomegranate and wild strawberries, lifted by subtle floral notes and a hint of dried herbs. The palate is bright and supple, driven by lively acidity, fine tannins and a clean, stony finish.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

A nouveau classic

Published 21. November 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Beaujolais Nouveau Day was yesterday — the annual Thursday in November when the first wines of the new vintage are released. Once a marketing spectacle, it now serves more quietly as a seasonal marker of early fruit and immediacy.

One estate that approaches the style with clarity and intent is Château Cambon, founded in 1995 by Marcel and Marie Lapierre together with Jean-Claude Chanudet. Their aim was to bring the Lapierre philosophy — organic farming, old vines, delicate extraction and minimal intervention — into a separate project focused on purity rather than prestige. Today the estate continues in the same spirit, producing wines that are understated, bright and free of ornament.

The label illustration is signed Siné — Maurice Sinet — the influential French caricaturist known for his sharply satirical line and long association with Charlie Hebdo. His irreverent, uncluttered style fits the wine surprisingly well: playful, direct and never weighed down.

Beaujolais Nouveau 2025 (Château Cambon)

Medium red with a hint of purple. Aromas of raspberry and freshly cut grass. Juicy and quenching on the palate, with fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins giving just enough shape without adding weight.

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