My best rosé, or pale red wine, at the entrance of Easter, was the super-fresh Motty from Lucy Chilvers.
Based in Penedès, Lucy farms around 4.5 hectares across small parcels at varying altitudes, on clay, limestone and sandy soils. Some of the vines are close to a century old.
The vineyards are worked organically, with touches of biodynamic practice. In the cellar, the approach is deliberately restrained: spontaneous fermentations with native yeasts, no additions, no filtration, and little or no sulphur.
This wine (mostly garnacha with a little merlot) follows this logic. Whole-bunch elements contribute tension, while the wine is bottled without filtration, preserving both texture and energy.
Motty 2023 (Lucy Chilvers)
In the glass, it is pale and translucent. The nose leans towards fresh red berries—wild strawberry, cranberry—with a faint herbal edge and a slightly untamed note from whole clusters. On the palate, it is light-bodied but far from simple: vibrant, energetic, with a driving acidity. The tannins are present yet gentle, giving just enough grip to frame the fruit. There is a subtle savoury undertone, and a sense of movement throughout—a wine that really feels alive.
Sexto Elemento, that is: wine, is the life project of Rafa López and Silvia García, in Venta del Moro, Valencia.
The wine is crafted entirely without chemical additives, following an artisanal approach in both vineyard and cellar. Made from bobal, sourced from old, dry-farmed vines, the grapes are harvested by hand and handled with great care throughout. Fermentation with native yeasts is followed by ageing for 12 months in oak, integrated in a way that supports rather than dominates the wine’s expression.
The wine was served at natural wine spot La Gracia of Murcia – for me the first outdoor pour of the year.
Sexto Elemento 2023(Sexto Elemento)
In the glass, the wine shows a bright cherry red colour, vivid and inviting. The nose is expressive and layered, combining red and dark berries with notes of dried herbs, subtle spice and a hint of cedar. On the palate, it is finely structured yet supple, with fresh acidity balancing flavours of cherry, plum and pomegranate. The finish is long, harmonious and resonant, with fruit, spice and texture in perfect harmony. Ideal for the after-skis of Easter.
More highlights from my tastings at Simplesmente Vinho.
From Castilla y León, Malaparte (Elisa de Frutos and Rubén Salamanca) presented their distinctive OX Blanc 2023. This blend is fermented with indigenous yeasts and then aged outdoors in large glass demijohns, where a layer of flor develops. Deep golden in colour, it offers aromas of dried flowers, preserved citrus and nuts. On the palate it is rich and structured, with a lightly oxidative character reminiscent of biologically aged wines, yet balanced by a core of freshness and a long, savoury finish.
The step from that wine to the next seemed short. Barco del Corneta was represented by Félix Crespo, who presented their line of fabulous, textural verdejos (and some reds). Among them was Las Envidias 2022, a wine made from palomino and aged in botas de Jerez. Pale in colour with a light yellow tint, the wine showed aromas of mature apple and citrus peel, with a subtle yeasty note from the ageing. On the palate it was dry and savoury, with good freshness and a lightly oxidative tone. The finish carried a delicate saline touch that added character and length.
J. Palacios of Corullón in Bierzo was also present. Ricardo Pérez Palacios had brought his stunning parcel wines, all the way up to the legendary La Faraona. “I wanted to make a good impression,” Ricardo smiled – which he certainly did. Here I chose Moncerbal 2023. Cherry red in colour, it opens with a perfumed nose of flowers, wild herbs and both red and darker berries. On the palate the wine shows impressive precision, with fresh fruit and a firm but finely grained tannin structure. It is surprisingly approachable already, though a hint of oak appears in the aftertaste, suggesting that the wine will continue to develop gracefully for many years.
From Arribes, El Hato y el Garabato, represented here by Liliana Fernández, showed their range. I did not taste all the wines, but Otro Cuento 2022, predominantly doña blanca fermented and aged in foudre, was fabulous. Pale in colour, the wine offers aromas of apple and citrus with a faint herbal touch. On the palate it is light and fresh, with a rounded texture, lively acidity and a subtle hint of oak that adds depth without dominating.
Alfredo Maestro is a classic presence at Simplesmente, with his vibrant natural wines from across Castilla y León. Here I chose a personal favourite, El Marciano 2023, a garnacha from Sierra de Gredos. Bright red in colour, the wine shows aromas of fresh red berries with a hint of wild herbs. On the palate it is juicy and lively, with fine tannins and refreshing acidity that give the wine both energy and drinkability.
Daniel Ramos is likewise always a delight to meet – and to taste his aged natural wines from Gredos. This time I chose a younger wine, Zerberos CariNena 2023, made from cariñena as the name suggests. The colour leans toward red with a slight orange tint and the wine is a bit turbid in the glass. Aromas move between red and darker berries with a faint volatile lift that adds complexity. On the palate it is vibrant and expressive, balancing fruit, acidity and a lightly rustic edge.
This wine marked the end of my tastings. Thank you to the organisers – the Roseira family – and see you next year.
Sébastien Riffault is one of the most singular voices in Sancerre. Working organically and biodynamically, he has long challenged the region’s conventions. His philosophy centres on waiting: later harvesting, full physiological ripeness, and minimal intervention in the cellar. The aim is to allow the site to speak.
Akmèniné, a name drawn from Lithuanian, means something akin to “stony”. It refers to the limestone-rich soils of Sancerre, in the language of Riffault’s wife. Picked later than is customary in Sancerre, the 2020 reveals a broader, more textural expression of sauvignon blanc.
Akmèniné 2020(Sébastien Riffault)
Deep straw yellow, towards golden, slightly turbid. Aroma of citrus peel, ripe orchard fruit and a gentle hint of herbs, underpinned by a chalky, mineral edge. On the palate, there is both breadth and tension — a subtle ripeness balanced by freshness, with a saline, finely grained finish.
Constantino Ramos works mainly in Minho, producing super-fresh, often saline wines, both white and red. This time I was particularly impressed by Juca 2024, where chestnut flowers are used instead of sulphur. Dark in colour with a faint bluish tone, the wine shows aromas of both red and darker berries. On the palate it is juicy and lively, with fresh acidity, a lightly saline touch and an extra layer of complexity. The finish is long and energetic.
At Materramenta – where Constantino also consults, working with Luís Vasco – the focus was on wines from three different Azores islands. I chose Materramenta D.O. Biscoitos 2024 a verdelho and arinto dos açores blend from Terceira, where the project has its headquarters. Pale straw in colour, it offers aromas of ripe apple and citrus. The palate is bright and lively, with good acidity and a clear saline note that reflects the Atlantic surroundings.
From Lisboa wine region, Quinta da Serradinha – located near Leiria in the northern part of the region, in the limestone hills of Encostas d’Aire – and António Marques da Cruz showed a range of stylish wines in different colours. Serradinha Branco 2024, made from encruzado and arinto, had 18 hours of skin contact, was fermented in barrels and aged ten months on the lees. The result is golden in colour, with aromas of yellow apple and herbs. The palate is mouthfilling and textured, combining weight with freshness. A second version with a higher proportion of arinto (around 65%) showed a little more acidity and tension.
From the Douro, Grau Baumé – represented here by Hugo Mateus and based around Peso da Régua – presented Undo Alvarinto 2021, a blend of alvarinho and arinto. The wine is light and aromatic, with citrus and floral notes on the nose. On the palate it shows moderate weight, lively acidity and a clean, refreshing finish.
Tiago Sampaio, also from the Douro (and not far away, from around Alijó), poured Uivo Chronológico Ancestral 2018, a pét-nat made from pinot noir. Many people claim that pét-nat cannot age, but Tiago is keen to demonstrate the opposite. The wine is light golden in colour, with subtle brioche notes and fine, well-integrated bubbles. The palate is dry, complex and gastronomic – the kind of sparkling wine that works beautifully at the table.
Finally, from Vidigueira in Alentejo, Natus and Hamilton Reis presented Natus 2023. Vidigueira is known as a white-wine enclave in a region dominated by reds. This roupeiro-antão vaz-gouveio blend shows a light golden colour, with a deep and layered aroma profile. On the palate it is broad and complex, combining ripeness with freshness and a long, balanced finish.
In the Swartland, where dry-farmed bush vines and a spirit of independence have reshaped South African wine over the past two decades, Testalonga has become something of a reference point. Craig Hawkins works with old vineyards, minimal intervention and a clear preference for wines that express both place and process without embellishment. There is a raw honesty here.
This wine is made from chenin blanc, fermented on the skins in open vessels with native yeasts. Extraction is gentle but deliberate, allowing structure to build over time. The wine is then aged without make-up — no additives, no unnecessary manipulation — before being bottled with minimal sulphur. The aim is not to push the style, but to let it settle into itself.
The wine was enjoyed at Tempo wine bar, Sandnes, Norway.
El Bandito Skin 2024(Testalonga)
Deep golden hue with a slight amber tint. Aroma of dried orange peel, apricot skin and a gentle note of dried herbal tea. Textured and lightly grippy, with fine phenolics framing the fruit. There is a calmness to the wine — the elements feel well integrated, the acidity supportive, and the finish long, gently herbal and dry.
Here are more wines from Simplesmente Vinho 2026 – this time from what might be called “the other Galicia”.
Iria Otero can be found in Ribeiro, though she also makes wine from Rías Baixas. Her wines are consistently fresh and vibrant; even the Ribeiros carry a noticeable saline touch despite coming from slightly inland vineyards. A Seara Castes Tintas 2024, a field blend, shows a bright cherry-red colour. The nose offers fresh red fruits – cherry and raspberry – with a subtle floral note. On the palate the wine is lively and precise, with firm structure, refreshing acidity and a lightly saline finish that adds tension.
Also from Ribeiro comes Augalevada. It was the first time I met Iago Garrido, though I had recently tasted one of his partly flor-aged wines. Here I chose Ollos de Roque 2023, also a field blend. The wine is pale and finely textured, with vibrant citrus fruit on the nose. The palate combines freshness with a surprising breadth, offering juicy fruit, good acidity and a mouthfilling texture that carries through to a long, persistent finish.
From Ribeira Sacra we find the dynamic duo behind Fedellos do Couto – Jesús and Curro. They showed a line-up of stylish and very fresh wines, among them an all-time favourite: Bastarda 2023. Very light in colour, the wine opens with delicate floral aromas and bright red berries. On the palate it is juicy and energetic, with lively acidity and a saline edge that enhances the drinkability.
Also from Ribeira Sacra, Guímaro’s Pedro Manuel Rodríguez presented his typically stylish wines, each expressing a distinct site. A Ponte 2021 showed some development and was perhaps at an ideal moment to drink. Ruby red in colour, it offered open aromas of red and dark fruits with a touch of spice. The palate was structured yet balanced, with depth and a long, composed finish.
From Valdeorras, Rafael Palacios – represented here by winemaker Pablo Blanco – poured structured, terroir-driven whites. Sorte Antiga 2023, godello from a vineyard planted in 1920, appeared light golden in the glass. The nose suggested ripe citrus and subtle herbal notes, while the palate was full and concentrated, combining richness with freshness and finishing long and precise.
This year Simplesmente Vinho highlighted wines from neighbouring Galicia. One of the tastings focused on “iconic wines”, offering a glimpse of the diversity of the region. It also showed that ageing wines over many years can be complicated. Bottles evolve differently, and even well-known wines can show variation. Still, the tasting gave a vivid impression of the Galician vitality. Here are some of my favourite wines from the albariño stronghold.
Antonio Portela never ceases to impress with his wines from the Morrazo peninsular seashore. The maritime influence is unmistakable, bringing a saline freshness that runs through the range. Area Brava, named after the beach, and O Mare Namorado are both strong representatives of his work. Here I chose a wine with plenty of personality that I have not highlighted before: Solpor 2023, a rosé made from tinta femia and fermented in damajuanas. The colour is delicate onion skin or faint peach. The aroma combines strawberry and peach with hints of white orchard fruit. On the palate the wine is light but expressive, with lively acidity carrying the fruit through the finish. The texture is supple and refreshing, and the low alcohol – just 9% – gives it an effortless drinkability.
Then a strong trio from the Val do Salnés subzone of Rías Baixas.
From Nanclares y Prieto, Alberto Nanclares continues to produce super-mineral whites alongside increasingly stylish reds. Soverribas 2024, a parcel wine, is a fine example. It is pale and finely drawn, with aromas of apple and citrus. On the palate it is vibrant and precise, showing lively acidity and a distinct stony minerality that lingers on the finish. The wine feels airy and transparent, yet with enough depth to give it structure.
At Zárate, Eulogio Pomares continues his impressive work with terroir-oriented, mineral wines that emphasise vineyard character. Just before the festival I had an off bottle of Balado, which made it particularly important to see the wine in proper form. This time the 2024 vintage showed beautifully. After three months on lees without bâtonnage, the wine is light in colour yet remarkably intense. The nose is very fresh, while the palate combines concentration with energy, finishing with a clear saline edge that reflects its coastal origin.
Finally, Miguel Alfonso of Pedralonga produces wines of remarkable elegance, both white and red. I have highlighted his “normal” whites before. Marel 2023, aged for a year in amphora, shows a golden colour with a slight amber hue. Aromas of orange peel and dried citrus lead into a deep palate with gentle tannin and a broad, textured finish. Despite the amphora ageing the wine retains clarity and lift, with freshness balancing the richer tones from skin contact.
What these wines share – and what I value most in wines from this part of Galicia – is their mineral, fresh and subtly saline style. The Atlantic presence is unmistakable, giving the wines both tension and drinkability, and tying together very different interpretations of the region’s vineyards.
The name Mon Coeur – “my heart” – is not chosen lightly. This cuvée is Jean-Louis Chave’s personal tribute to the southern Rhône.
The blend is dominated by grenache with syrah and mourvèdre, sourced from vineyards around Vinsobres, Visan and neighbouring villages. Fermentation is followed by ageing in a combination of concrete and large oak casks.
The wine was enjoyed in Madrid, at La Caníbal of Lavapiés, and fitted perfectly with their take on the Beef Wellington.
Mon Coeur 2023(Jean-Louis Chave)
Deep ruby with a youthful purple rim. Generous aromas of dark cherries, blackberries and crushed herbs, with a touch of pepper and garrigue. The palate is supple yet structured, with ripe fruit, fresh acidity and finely grained tannins that give the wine both charm and depth.
This is a wine with warmth and a sense of terroir, a southern Rhône seen through the lens of one of the valley’s most thoughtful producers. A bottle that proves how much character can live within the humble designation Côtes du Rhône.
Whenever I am in the center of Madrid I try to find time for a visit to Bar Bendito in the Mercado de San Fernando. This time I was served three wines and some tasty bites.
One of the wines was Biográfico Graciano y Tempranillo. Biográfico is produced by Uva de Vida, the biodynamic project of Carmen López Delgado and Luis Ruiz in Santa Olalla, Toledo, in the countryside south of Madrid. The vineyards lie on sandy and clay-limestone soils, where organic farming is not a marketing slogan but a working philosophy. Everything here is cultivated biodynamically, with a strong commitment to soil life and ecological balance.
The wine blends two classic Spanish varieties: Tempranillo and graciano. Tempranillo provides the structure and dark fruit, while graciano contributes freshness, aromatic lift and a slightly wild edge that keeps the wine vibrant. Fermentation takes place with native yeasts, followed by ageing in a mix of concrete and neutral vessels that preserve the fruit rather than marking the wine with oak. The result is a wine that feels both energetic and grounded.
Biográfico Graciano y Tempranillo 2022(Uva de Vida)
Dark cherry colour. The aroma also shows dark cherries, woth crushed herbs and a hint of spice. On the palate it is supple but precise, with fine tannins and a lively acidity that carries the fruit through to a long, savoury finish.
