The Muscadet region has long been synonymous with light, seafood-friendly whites, but a quiet revolution has taken place over the past couple of decades. Producers are now drawing attention to the age-worthiness and complexity that melon de bourgogne can offer—especially when rooted in the right soils and afforded patient lees ageing.
Clisson is one of the cru villages of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, its wines defined by the granite soils and long ageing on fine lees. For a cru Clisson, the regulations demand at least 24 months of lees contact. Ollivier-Cottencau take this one step further. This 2018 vintage spent no less than 42 months on the lees before bottling, allowing the wine to gain both depth and texture.
Ollivier-Cottencau is a collaboration between two families with deep roots in the region. The estate, situated in Maisdon-sur-Sèvre, is now in the hands of the younger generation, who have embraced organic farming and a low-intervention approach in the cellar. Their wines reflect a respect for both tradition and terroir, with a particular focus on long ageing.
Over time, the lees (yeast cells) break down and release compounds that contribute to the wine’s mouthfeel and aromatic complexity. The result is a wine that bears little resemblance to the brisk, saline Muscadet of old. Instead, Clisson 2018 presents a broader, more layered profile, while retaining the hallmark tension and freshness of the region.
Clisson 2018 (Ollivier-Cottencau)
Golden hue. Aroma of dried herbs, crushed stone, and ripe lemon peel, underscored by a light nuttiness from the lees. On the palate, the wine is taut yet textural, with a saline core wrapped in notes of orchard fruit and a gentle smokiness. Long finish, with a subtle grip that speaks of granite and time. A wine for the table—and for contemplation.
Price: Medium