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Tag: Açores

Wine of the Week

Between volcanic stones on Pico

On an island shaped by lava flows and stone-walled vineyards, we find Entre Pedras—a producer whose name, meaning “between stones”, is a fitting tribute to Pico’s volcanic terrain, where vines cling to life just metres from the Atlantic Ocean.

Arinto dos açores is not a clone of the mainland arinto but a distinct, ancient variety indigenous to the Azores. Perfectly adapted to the challenges of Pico—high humidity, saline winds, and meagre soils—it thrives in biscoitos, traditional plots carved into black basalt. Each vine grows within low stone enclosures, or currais, which protect against ocean winds and salt spray. The roots penetrate fissures in the lava rock, drawing mineral intensity from deep within the earth.

Entre Pedras is the project of André Ribeiro and his partner Ricardo Pinto, who bring a deep respect for Pico’s winemaking heritage alongside a clear commitment to purity and site expression. The vineyards are farmed by hand, and fermentation is carried out with native yeasts, allowing the grapes and volcanic soils to speak for themselves. The 2022 vintage was fermented in stainless steel and aged on fine lees—a method that builds texture while preserving freshness and clarity.

Arinto dos Açores 2022 (Entre Pedras)

Bright pale gold in the glass. The nose is saline and stony, with notes of lime and green apple skin. On the palate, it’s razor-sharp and electric, driven by a vibrant core of acidity. There’s a subtle creaminess, underpinned by a fine, chalky texture. Persistent and mouthwatering—this is a wine of clarity, precision, and tension.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

The original Pico Verdelho

António Maçanita is perhaps most known from his Fita Preta project in Alentejo, and maybe some have heard about the partnership with his sister Joana in the Douro.

But now, a few words about his work in the AçoresPreservation of the indigenous grape varieties is a key concept. And showing the grapes’, and the terroir’s potential, especially for white wines, is maybe his most important task there.

(photo credit: AWC)

I had just become aware of this project through the Verdelho wine before I left for Portugal. But at the Simplesmente Vinho fair in Porto I had the possibility to meet him. In fact his wine showed up already at the opening dinner.

Here it is. Varietal 100% verdelho. Verdelho, “the original”, this to distinguish it from grapes that have been wrongly confused with it (such as gouveio, godello, verdejo and more).

It was harvested manually. Whole bunch pressing was carried out, natural racking
after 24 hours, and fermentation in 600 to 1000 litre steel tanks. Designation: the Pico sub-region (on the west of the island) within the Açores IG area.

Last words: About the possible confusion between Azores – Açores (on the label you can read both), the former is English, the latter Portuguese.

Verdelho o Original 2016 (Azores Wine Company)

Light yellow, hints of green. Aroma with citrus, yellow apples, herbs, slightly nutty. Clean, fresh, quite full, salty mineral, and long.

Price: Medium

Food: Grilled fish, seafood, salads, perfect with oysters

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