The wine cooperatives of Conca de Barberà are among the most distinctive in Spain, not only for their role in reviving viticulture after the phylloxera crisis, but also for their unique architectural identity. Often referred to as wine cathedrals, these buildings are part of a movement that combined function, modernist design and social ambition in rural Catalonia in the early 20th century.
Credit: Cellers Domenys
During the 19th century, the so-called “Catalan Gold Rush” led to vineyards becoming almost the sole crop in Conca de Barberà. The region’s fertile soils and reliable water sources enabled it to meet the soaring demand for wine and spirits from Northern Europe and the Americas. But the prosperity was short-lived. In 1893, phylloxera struck the region, devastating the vineyards and pushing growers into crisis.
Recognising the need for collective action, the Sociedad de Trabajadores Agrícolas del Pueblo de Barberá was formed in 1894 – the first agricultural cooperative in all of Spain. This initiative laid the foundation for a cooperative tradition that would define the region. By 1902, leadership of the movement had passed to Josep M. Rendé from Espluga de Francolí, who played a crucial role in expanding cooperativism throughout La Conca.
The winery in the town of Barberà was established in 1903 and is considered the first purpose-built cooperative winery in Spain. In 1912, during the Commonwealth of Catalonia, Josep M. Rendé also initiated the construction of his hometown’s winery – a modernist building designed by Pere Domènec i Roure. It was this building that prompted the poet Àngel Guimerà to give these structures their enduring nickname: wine cathedrals.
Between 1912 and 1919, architects Pere Domènec and Cèsar Martinell, a disciple of Antoni Gaudí, designed six modernist wineries in Conca de Barberà. Martinell in particular combined traditional Catalan construction techniques, such as brick vaulting, with the functional needs of a working cellar. His designs allowed for gravity-fed vinification, optimal temperature control, and included large arched windows for ventilation. These buildings were meant not only to serve winemaking, but to uplift and dignify the rural working class at a time of great economic difficulty.
After the Spanish Civil War, the Barberà Agricultural Society merged with the Agricultural Trade Union, forming the Barberà de la Conca Agricultural Cooperative, which became one of the region’s most important winemaking institutions.
During my trip in Conca de Barberà I visited Castell D’Or (Cooperativa de L’Espluga de Francolí), Cellers Domenys (Sindicat Agricol de Rocafort de Queralt), the first one to be drawn by Cèsar Martinell in 1918, and Vinícola de Sarral – all of them among the most important cooperatives in the region. Though now operating under larger umbrella structures, each has deep roots in the cooperative history of the region. They have played a crucial role in preserving the trepat grape, traditionally used in rosé and cava blends, and are now turning their attention to making varietal red wines that reflect the character of the local terroir. Their continued investment in both tradition and modernisation shows that the cooperative spirit in Conca de Barberà is very much alive.
The modernist wineries of Conca de Barberà remain striking examples of how architectural vision and collective resilience came together in response to crisis. They are not only monuments to the past, but dynamic institutions shaping the future of Catalan wine.
Trepat 2024 (Castell D’Or) – Made in stainless steel. Light ruby in colour. Aromas of red berries and Mediterranean herbs. On the palate it is clean and fresh, with light tannins and a soft, dry finish. A very pure and accessible expression of young trepat.
Tres Naus Brut(Cellers Domenys), 2022, but labelled non-vintage – A blend of parellada, macabeu and xarel·lo, aged 18 months on the lees. Light in body with fine bubbles. Aromas of apple, citrus zest, hay and a touch of yeasty complexity. On the palate, lively acidity balances soft fruit, resulting in a bright and food-friendly sparkling wine.
Domenio Ull de Llebre 2021 (Cellers Domenys) – 100% ull de llebre from organic vineyards. Cherry red in colour. Aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry and wild herbs. On the palate, medium-bodied with a good balance of fruit and oak, and a hint of earthiness on the finish.
Portell Glatim Negre de Trepat 2022 (Vinícola de Sarral) – Made from organic trepat and aged four months in French and American oak. Light ruby hue. The nose offers redcurrant, cranberry, pepper and dried herbs. On the palate, it’s lively and savoury, with gentle oak, smooth texture and a fresh, spicy finish.
Located just outside Montblanc in the heart of Conca de Barberà, Mas Foraster, also called Josep Foraster, is a family-run estate that has become one of the leading names in the revival of trepat – the region’s native red grape. Founded in 1998, the winery is now run by Ricard Sebastià Foraster, who not only oversees the estate but also serves as president of the Consejo Regulador of the DO Conca de Barberà. “Josep was both my grandfather and my uncle,” says Ricard.
Kepa and Ricard
The estate currently covers 34 hectares – 27 owned and the rest leased – and only estate-grown grapes are used. All vineyards are farmed organically, and biodynamic compost is applied. Elevations range from 280 to 550 metres around Montblanc, and up to 650 meters around Sarral and on the other side of the mountains. These high altitudes, along with calcareous and clay-rich soils, contribute to the wines’ freshness and clarity. According to Ricard, while clay brings more yield, calcareous soils provide greater concentration – but above all, it’s the cool climate that trepat needs.
Trepat, traditionally used in rosado and cava, is now taking centre stage. Mas Foraster has been a key player in this transformation, releasing their first red trepat in 2009 – the second on the market after Carles Andreu. Their red trepats are fermented spontaneously, with a 40-day maceration that continues even after fermentation ends. Sulphite levels are kept low, always under 40 mg/l, and ageing takes place exclusively in used barrels, foudres or concrete eggs.
The current range of trepat-based wines is wide and expressive:
Les Gallinetes 2024 (55% trepat, 45% garnatxa) is a light, juicy red with aroma of red berries, with fine tannins and a smooth, easy-drinking style.
Trepat 2023, made from seven old vineyards (60–96 years), grown in calcareous soils, undergoes long maceration in foudre and barrique. Ruby in colour, it shows red forest fruits and white pepper, with freshness, finesse and length.
Julieta 2023, named after Ricard’s mother and his daughter, from a single north-facing vineyard planted in 1940 at 450 metres, is aged seven months in concrete eggs. With aromas of raspberry and flowers, it has more structure and weight, firm tannins and a long, lingering finish.
Pep 2022, from 86-year-old vines at 580 metres, is made with whole clusters, foot-trodden in alabaster tanks. Light cherry red, the wine shows red fruits and herbs, with firm yet juicy structure and real depth.
Ricard
In addition to red wines, Mas Foraster also makes noteworthy whites and skin-contact styles:
Blanc Selecció 2023 is a blend of macabeu, chardonnay and garnatxa gris. The wine is fermented in concrete eggs and sees some skin contact in foudre. Pale yellow with green hints, it shows citrus, yellow apple, good volume and bright acidity.
Brisat del Coster 2023, an orange wine made from macabeu (some of which also goes into the Blanc Selecció), undergoes 25 days of skin contact in steel and concrete, with no added sulphites. Golden in hue, it offers notes of citrus peel, flowers, herbs and apricot, with light tannins and a textured, fresh palate. Ricard notes that macabeu, with its lower oxidative character than garnatxa gris, results in a lighter colour.
Kepa
The cellar is overseen by Kepa Martínez, whose mother is from the Basque Country, hence the name Kepa. Fermentations are spontaneous and temperature-controlled by natural means – “fermentation starts when the temperature rises,” says Ricard.
With a clear focus on trepat and a deep commitment to sustainable farming and precision winemaking, Mas Foraster stands as one of the most respected producers in the Conca de Barberà today – a house where tradition, innovation and identity converge.
I visited Conca de Barberà to witness how the grape trepat is being brought into the spotlight. The event was organised by the communication and public relations agency Mahala in collaboration with the local wine authorities.
Montblanc, where the local Consejo Regulador has its offices
Trepat has been cultivated in Conca de Barberà for centuries. Before phylloxera it counted for one third of the planted area. Now it has long been overlooked in favour of grapes like garnatxa and tempranillo. Traditionally used in rosé and cava, it is now revealing its potential for elegant, fresh and spicy red wines. The grape thrives in calcareous and clay-rich soils, and the cool nights of the region help preserve its natural acidity.
Typically low in alcohol, trepat offers high acidity, floral and spicy notes, and an earthy undertone. Winemakers are increasingly experimenting with whole-bunch fermentation, carbonic maceration, amphora and concrete eggs to highlight the grape’s unique personality. At the same time, organic and biodynamic practices are gaining ground.
Bernat and Carles Andreu
A pioneer of the modern trepat in Conca de Barberà was Celler Carles Andreu, who made the first single-varietal red wine from the grape back in 2004. They were among the first to believe in its potential. Today led by Carles’ son Bernat, I particularly like their young unoaked trepats, that display finesse, delicate berry fruit, herbal touches and a distinctive peppery finish.
Mas Foraster has also made trepat a signature, using organic cultivation and often working with whole clusters and gentle extraction to emphasise elegance. Led by Ricard Sebastià Foraster, they make fresh trepats, with hints of raspberry, rose petals and light tannins. But with their Julieta – the name of both Ricard’s mother and daughter – they also offer a slightly more structured version of the grape.
Patrick Webb and Roger Gili, Vidbertus
Vidbertus represents a new generation of winemakers focused on organic viticulture and minimal intervention in the cellar. Their pure trepats, like Elixir, reflect the limestone soils of Conca de Barberà, showing vibrant acidity and a spicy profile.
Josep Serra and Marta Pedra
Marta Pedra of Vins de Pedra practises organic viticulture and is in the process of certification. The wines carry a unique label design, created by her godfather and changed each year. Trempat sees careful use of new French oak, resulting in a wine that’s light and fragrant with red fruits, but also with refreshing menthol and liquorice and a delicate peppery note. An outdoor lunch at the farm offered a generous taste of everything grown and crafted on site—from freshly baked bread to fragrant olive oil and vibrant vegetables.
Rendé Masdéu, which lost its historic winery in the floods of 2019, has continued its work with trepat from a new facility. They produce both rosé and red styles with a balance between tradition and modernity.
Inma Soler, Mas de La Pansa
Then there is Mas de La Pansa, a small-scale producer making limited quantities of artisanal trepat. Inma Soler focuses on organic cultivation, spontaneous fermentation, skin contact, and ageing in old oak or stainless steel. Her dessert wine Trepat Dulce was a winner at the final dinner.
We witnessed the modernist architecture of the region’s cooperatives, among the oldest in Spain, in buildings by Cèsar Martinell. But more than that: The cooperatives have also played an important role in keeping trepat alive. Castell D’Or, Cellers Domenys and Vinícola de Sarral have used the grape in their cava blends for decades. Now, they are also exploring its potential for elegant, varietal wines in both rosé and red styles.
The Monastery of Poblet
The grape’s recent evolution in Conca de Barberà suggests a promising future. It would be perfect in today’s trendy bars. I would say it so far is at best in its young and unoaked versions. With growing attention from both winemakers and enthusiasts, this once-overlooked variety may well be on the path to a full-blown renaissance—not only in Spain, but on the international stage.
Raventós i Blanc is one of the leading producers of sparkling wine in Catalunya. Pepe Raventós has family links to the creator of the drink that came to be called cava. Still he was one of the first to leave the DO Cava, to establish his own appellation Conca del Riu Anoia. It is located in the Penedés comarca (area), in a valley between the Prelitoral and Litoral mountain ranges.
Raventós i Blanc makes mineral and saline wines, at a quality that is incredibly stable. I have never been disappointed.
De la Finca comes from a vineyard known as Vinya dels Fòssils. The old bush-trained vines were planted in 1964 on the highest terraces of the Anoia, on a soil covered with marine fossils. The orientation is predominantly northern, and there is spontaneous plant covers, that contribute to bring freshness to the wine. Viticulture is biodynamic. The grapes are the traditional blend xarel.lo, macabeu and parellada. Each variety and soil is vinified separately before settling together.
De La Finca 2021 (Raventós i Blanc)
Light straw yellow with fine bubbles. Aromas of lemon, yeast, lime and brioche, over a layer of smoke and herbs. Mineral in the mouth, a little austere, with a fresh acidity, completely dry. It’s Mediterranean in its ripeness, but it also shows a fresh side. Wonderfully balanced.
The region of Conca de Barberà, nestled in Catalonia, is quietly asserting itself as a haven for fresh, vibrant wines with a strong sense of place. Last week I came across this wine called Pomagrana. Made entirely from trepat—a grape traditionally reserved for light rosés and sparkling wines—this is a red that embraces delicacy, drinkability, and a distinctive Mediterranean charm.
Lectores Vini is a collaboration between the itinerant winemaker Fredi Torres and Marc Lecha. Based in Catalonia, they focus on terroir-driven, minimalist wines made from the region’s native grape varieties. Their approach is organic, with minimal intervention in the cellar.
Pomagrana is vinified with minimal extraction, highlighting the naturally light colour and crisp acidity of the grape. Fermentation is spontaneous, ageing is brief and without oak, and sulphites are kept to a minimum.
Trepat has long been a grape in search of an identity. Traditionally, it played a supporting role in blends or appeared in light-bodied sparkling wines. However, some winemakers have begun exploring its potential as a stand-alone red. The grape’s naturally low tannins and bright acidity make it perfectly suited for the modern thirst for fresher, less-extracted reds—wines that can be served slightly chilled and enjoyed with or without food.
Pomagrana 2021 (Lectores Vini)
Light, almost transparent, red. The nose gives wild strawberries, pomegranate seeds, and rose petals, underscored by a layer of white pepper. On the palate, it is juicy, energetic, with crisp red fruit, a touch of cranberry-like tartness, and a mineral streak.The finish is bright, pure, and mouthwatering. It’s taut and refreshing, almost weightless.
Clos Lentiscus is located inside the national park in the Garraf mountains. We are outside Sant Pere de Ribes in Catalunya. The winery was established in 2001 by Manel and Joan Aviñó. Here they cultivate 22 hectares of vineyards biodynamically, of which 95 percent are planted with local grape types from the Garraf area. The soils are calcareous with marine fossils.
No pesticides or herbicides are used in the vineyard. There we also find sheep, that ensure that the grass is kept down, and also contributing to the compost.
The grapes for this wine are xarel.lo from a vineyard planted around 1940. Harvested and selected by hand. Spontaneous fermentation. Aged in amphora.
Perill Blanc Amfora 2020(Clos Lentiscus)
Golden colour, slightly turbid. Aroma of lemon peel, wax, and a volatile touch. Full in the mouth, saline, vibrant and vivid, with good acidity, and a touch of grapefruity bitterness in the end.
La Gracia is a small and cozy natural wine bar that opened in 2020, when the pandemic was at its height. It’s found in Murcia capital, Spain, in one of the narrow streets behind the city hall and the cathedral in the Santa Eulalia district. They work with artisan producers of wine, cheese and also beer and other products. The owners are Esperanza Pérez Andreo and Cristina Ramos Berna. They have strong ties with local and regional producers from whom they buy directly.
I was there twice at the end of the year, including New Year’s Eve. We sat on the “terrace” (i.e. the plaza behind the first street) near midnight, and then inside the bar around noon. We chose from the cold and the warm tapas menues, and from the by-the-glass wine selection, that counts on around 30 references.
Esperanza Pérez, responsible for the wine selection
Among the small dishes we chose was a “cured” cheese selection. The first one was a young and fresh, but oh so tasty, cheese from Cartagena, then a 3-4 months cured goat’s cheese soaked in red wine, then a 9 months cured cheese from San Javier called ‘El Abuelo’ (the grandfather) and finally a wonderfully complex cheese from a mountain between Cartagena and Mazarrón. The watermelon marmelade was from coastal San Javier.
The wine list contains established and new natural wine stars from Murcia and elsewhere in Spain. We started with Las Madres 2020(Punta de Flecha), a light skin-contact white from the Madrid area. The grape is malvar, and like many other wines from that variety it is low on acidity but rather textured. Amber coloured and slightly fizzy, it had a nice aroma of flowers and orange peel.
Las Madres with chicken brioche
Viña Enebro is rather well-known in Spanish natural wine circles, and you can read about a visit in Bullas here. El Yesar 2020 is a white wine made from the red grape forcallat. Hence it has a little blush of red. It’s round and tasty, and the aroma includes traces of citrus (clementine) and herbs.
At the second day I asked for whatever white wine and was served Doble Plaer 2020 from Vinyes Singulars (with collaboration from Toni Osorio) It turned to be a wonderful wine with a phenomenal acidity, almost electric. It has a good body too. Light orange in colour, and somewhat cloudy, with an aroma of citrus peel (lemon) and flowers over black tea. Long aftertaste where the citric notes linger. The grapes are malvasía de Sitges and parellada.
The two first reds were revelations from the Murcia region. Negrete 2021 from Negrete Blue is a monastrell/garnacha tintorera from no less than 1.373 meters of altitude in the Bullas denomination. It was a fresh and juicy, berry-dominated, young wine, with blackberry and blueberry in front.
Tinaha 2020 comes from the bodega of the same name. It’s found between Molino de Segura and Jumilla to the north of the regional capital. As the name implies they believe in ageing in clay (tinajas). The varieties are a local field blend, and so monastrell should be among the suspects. The wine had red berry notes, but was more dominated by a clay minerality with flowers, and had a juicy taste with a long aftertaste, and especially for the region, good acidity.
We tasted two reds from Castilla. Felipe el Caminero 2021(Inma Badillo) is a fresh tempranillo/ juan garcía/bruñal blend from Arribes del Duero, close to the Portuguese border (provinces Zamora and Salamanca). It’s a pure, very juicy and fruity wine with lots of berry character. La Payana 2020 (Cható Gañán) is completely different. Made from garnacha on granite soil in the Sierra de Gredos, it has a more serious air to it. It has some of the etheral character often associated with the Gredos garnachas, and some of the minerality behind the red fruits. The oak shows delicately on the palate.
Since I was back on New Year’s Eve I took the opportunity to round off with a sparkling wine. The choice fell on En Moviment A 2020 (Bàrbara Forés) from Terra Alta, Catalunya, made from the local morenillo grape. The sparkling rosé smells of peach and grapefruit. There is an acidic attack in the mouth, the wine is slim in the middle, but the citrus acidity strikes back and gives it a lift towards the end.
Early one morning I take the train from Barcelona. I’m on my way to Sabadell. It is not a completely normal sightseeing, because I am going on a company visit. I get off at one stop before the train arrives at the terminus about half an hour from the busy metropolis. The contrast could hardly have been greater. I walk through a sleepy suburb with brick houses and old factory chimneys. I know I am near when I pass several garages, car rental companies, and by a large parking lot is no. 10 where I can not find the company name and entrance until I have asked the workers in a car repair shop. It’s like in a romantic fantasy about the old days: I had to ask the locals for where to go.
First impression in Sabadell is a glimpse of its industrial identity
It’s almost like I’m the first tourist here. And what does Sabadell have to brag about? They have a bank, I know. And I have been told that it has been one of Spain’s most important cities for the wool and textile industry. I have an agreement with Arnau Palomero, who has the title “commercial designer” in Pulltap’s. Arnau says that one of the most important industries in the city has been metallurgy and products associated with the automotive industry. A piece fell into place! Well, to say that Sabadell is known for making one of the world’s most popular corkscrews would be an exaggeration. But still: I’m here to find out a little more about Pulltap’s wine opener and what was the reason that it appeared exactly here.
It’s unbelievable that behind door number 10 is the headquarters of a producer for the world. Two of its neighbours are Scuderia Motors, Europcar Sabadell and a big parking spot.
A bust and a photograph of Ramón Brucart Puig are displayed in Palomero’s office. Brucart, born 14 October 1937, is the only important figure in Pulltap’s pamphlet on the company and its history. But there is not much information to be found about him, and a search on the internet gives far more hits on his namesake, the motocross rider. Arnau Palomero shows me the first corkscrew for which Brucart was granted a patent in 1991. This was mentioned in the special magazine The Daily Screw in 1991 and called Pocket Hand Corkscrew. A year earlier, he had received a European patent for a similar wine opener called Puigpull. His company was then called Puig Bonich, which he ran together with his wife Marta Bonich Linares.
Arnaud Romeral in the office, overlooking some of the city’s many car companies
Pulltap’s was founded in 1996, here in Sabadell, a city of just over 200,000 inhabitants in the province of Barcelona. The company came about after Ramón Brucart contacted the Alberich and Vilarrubí families. These had previously, in 1963, founded the metallurgical company TADE-Talleres Auxiliares de Estampaciones, which is headquartered in Sabadell. Pulltap’s then became part of the TADE company, until Pulltap’s grew as a company and became independent.
No tree can grow into the sky. But Brucart founded an empire
Pulltap’s in the tradition
There are a number of corkscrews on the market. We read that the first simple corkscrews may have been derived from the tools used to remove gunpowder sludge from weapons in the 17th century, including those with a metal spiral. Due to the large force required to pull a cork out of a bottle, many mechanical corkscrews have been made that use the so-called lever principle. Variants of this are models such asthe waiter’s friend, the Screwpull, the butterfly and the winged owl corkscrew (also of Spanish origin). Pulltap’s fit into this tradition.
The first corkscrew made by Ramón Brucart in 1996
When Pulltap’s wine opener has in a relatively short time become an established classic for both professionals in the wine industry and among private individuals, it is not without reason. It is made of quality materials and has a design that takes good care of aesthetics and ergonomics. With Pulltap’s, waiters all over the world know that they can pull out a cork while standing at the table, with one hand on the neck of the bottle and the other operating the corkscrew. The double joint makes the opening of a bottle an effortless process, where the force only acts in one direction. With many other wine openers, the cork is pulled against the neck of the bottle, with the risk of the cork breaking.
One of the most important partners has been, and still is, Miguel Torres, renowned bodeguero in Vilafranca del Penedès
The original model is today called Classic. The company found that it was necessary for most people to use both hands. A newer addition is a sliding knife blade that is pulled out with just one hand. This patented model is called Slider. Variants of this model are called Slider Boss and Samurai. Pulltap’s also produces corkscrew models for left-handers, with the spiral symmetrically opposite to the regular one.
Both the handle and the lever for the Classic and Slider models are made of stainless steel. The handle is lacquered and the lever nickel-plated, to achieve a protective effect and prevent rust. Slider Boss is made of aluminum with a stainless steel lever. The handle can be made in many different colors and finishes and can also have inlaid hardwood. Included are a teflon-coated spiral worm, a knife blade and a beer or soda bottle opener.
Corkscrews for the city and its football team
The entire production process takes place in the country, in the Barcelona area, with the exception of the spiral produced in France. It is a work that is mostly manual, and very slow, when printing logos and names on a form that is so complex. Arnau says that he himself has participated in this work this past week.
Imitations
Imitations have been a big problem for Pulltap’s, and they have two shelves where they display only some of all the imitations made in other countries, such as China. Arnau holds two seemingly identical wine openers next to each other. The devil is in the details, they say. Maybe it will not be more true than here. The copy from Argentina has a 30% smaller metal original, it has a finish of chrome instead of nickel – and it seems more flimsy.
Above the original in nickel, below an imitation with chrome, and 30% less metal
From the shelves of imitations
At most, Pulltap’s made 4 million wine openers annually. But due to the many imitations, they are now down to 1-2 million. They would rather use energy to further develop their own product than to try to fight the imitations. They have introduced the brand name Pulltap’s Genuine, that is engraved onto all openers. And since 2014, all genuine Pulltap’s products have come with a P engraved next to the brand name.
Pulltex is a distributor for Pulltap’s products in Europe and America. It is a large company headquartered in the Llobregat area, closer to Barcelona airport, which produces and distributes wine accessories. But they also make wine openers, and for the sake of confusion some come with the name Pulltap’s. They want to be associated with Pulltap’s, so they have taken a name that is close. Palomero nevertheless points out that the relationship with Pulltex is obviously good.
Ramón Brucart is still alive, and he is approaching 85 years of age. Arnau says that he has good contact with the company, which still has the character of a family business. But it’s time to go, as I have an appointment in Barcelona in the evening. So this time it is not time to contact the inventor himself. I imagine he could have had interesting stories to tell. But it will be next time.
Here is an ecologic cava from the varieties pansa blanca (local name for xarel.lo), macabeu and parellada. The Alta Alella winery is run by the Pujol-Busquets family in the Serralada de Marina Natural Park, just north of the city of Barcelona. Mireia, daughter of founders Josep Maria and Cristina Pujol-Busquets, is currently wine-maker.
Alta Alella’s wines are made from their own grapes. The soils are low in pH, which compensates for the warm Mediterranean climate and give acidity to the wines. They are based on the decomposed granite called sauló, with a sandy texture and good drainage.
All work in the vineyard is manual. After a gentle pressing each of the varieties for this wine ferment separately. Then there is a second fermentation in bottle following the traditional Champenoise method. Unfermented must is used to provide the sugar for the secondary fermentation in bottle, and SO2 is added only after disgorging. The ageing on lees is 30 months (thus the youngest of their cavas). It is disgorged before release, with the disgorgement date noted on the label.
None of Alta Alella’s wines receives dosage.
Mirgin Gran Reserva 2017(Alta Alella)
Light straw. Fruity, green apple, lemon peel, chalk and some brioche autolycic quality. Full in the mouth, mellow mousse, good acidity, dry, saline, long.
I am back at Barcelona’s Vella Terra. It is now in its 6th edition after having been postponed, last time since February this year. Vella Terra is a fair organized by the couple Ale Delfino and Stefano Fraternali, and celebrates natural and low-intervention wines from smaller wineries, most of them family businesses. This year there were 146 artisans from 16 countries booked in. There were also related companies like Pulltex, distributor of wine accessories (see my company profile of one of their most important collaborators Pulltap’s in a forthcoming article) and restaurants like Garage Bar and Zaza. There were of course also various activities around town, with so much “talent” gathered in one place.
The Vella Terra poster by the entrance of Estació del Nord
This year I had no special theme in mind. I did select a bit, but was also open to walk in new doors. So here are some of the most interesting tastes, only organized from local to global, if I can put it that way. And as many times before, I try to restrict myself by chosing only one wine from each winery. In this first part we shall deal with Spain.
Josep Casañas and Brugués Faura Ginabreda
I had tasted a few wines from Cal Teixidor before. (See my latest wine of the week here.) Their winery is found in Corbera de Llobregat, not far from Barcelona. At Vella Terra Josep Casañas showed an impressive range, most of the wines based on the two vineyards described in my latest wine of the week, that you can read about here). These are a north-facing xarel.lo vineyard that gives acidity and minerality, and a south or southwest-facing macabeu vineyard that gives more fruity, aromatic wines. There were also wines made from subirat parent (see his T-shirt), also known by the name malvasía riojana. Here I chose a wine solely based on the macabeu vineyard from 1974. It’s called Masía Cal Salines 2019, is made with whole clusters and aged … Dark yellow; appley, with fennel-tones; rich, structured and mouth-filling. Josep also showed a superb subirat parent traditional method sparkler with almost the same name, Masía Cal SalinesBrut Nature Reserva. This fruity wine, with herbs and mature apple, but also mineral and with a fresh acidity – was of the 2017 vintage and aged 42 months on the lees. Which strictly makes it a gran reserva (it’s minimum 30 months, by Cava standards). Lastly, his wife Brugués is the force behind the estate’s own olive oil.
Josep Medios and Anna Janué, Loxarel
Loxarel I have known a long time, and I’ve appreciated their good and not least good value wines. Last time they were represented in a wine of the week post was here. In February I had an appointment with winemaker Pep for a visit to their Penedès winery, but had to cancel as I was struck by covid. Here founder Josep Medios participated together with Anna Janué, who calls herself commercial sommelier. They showed an impressive range, such as still and sparkling Loxarel à pel, an amphora-made xarel.lo, and a “xarel.lo sherry” (called Himen), and reds. Here I chose Loxarel109 2011, a brut nature reserva (well, technically it qualifies for a gran reserva). This wine was the reason that Loxarel left DO Cava for Clàssic Penedès, because the authorities didn’t allow them to bottle without disgorging. Loxarel’s opinion is that after nine years the wine has already integrated the yeast. Obviously, this is also a xarel.lo-dominated wine, like nearly all the most ageworthy. Aged on the lees for 109 months in a shelter from the civil war. Light in colour; smells of mature apples, burnt yeast and coffee; is rich with a super acidity and mineral finish, it’s still full of vividness and not at all “old”. It comes in a bottle wrapped in paper.
Núria Aviñó, Clos Lentiscus
Núria Parellada (front)
Clos Lentiscus is located inside the national park in the Garraf mountains just outside Sant Pere de Ribes. The winery was established in 2001 by brothers Manel and Joan Aviñó, when they set out on a task of restoring the family vineyard from the 14th century. They currently cultivate 22 hectares of vineyards in a biodynamic way, of which 95 percent are planted with local grape varieties.
Before the fair I had warmed up with a classy, mineral red, Perill Noir Carinyena 2017, a varietal carinyena that also were shown here. I chose one of the bright sparklers that Manel’s daughter Núria poured. The Núria Parellada 2018, one of several wines named after her, is a pét-nat, very fresh for its age. It’s very dry with notes of red apples, raspberry and bright citrus.
Dido and Jur of Vinyes Tortuga
I met Dido and Jurriaan three years ago at the Garage Bar. Then they were just starting, after having travelled the world and worked in a number of wineries. Since then I have come across their rosé sparkler Juicy several times. (See here.) share a passion: wine. They bought 9.5 hectares of vines planted in the Albera natural reserve of Alt Empordà, where they farm organically and have started to implement biodynamic principles. They have now bought an old coop in the village Rabós, where they first were hiring space.
Many of their labels carry references to music, such as Big Time Sensuality, Comfortably numb and Libertango. My pick here would be Magic Potion 2021, a cabernet franc-sauvignon pét-nat named after the album of The Black Keys: Blueish red, full of fresh and sweet strawberry and raspberry fruit, and in the mouth some structure that complements well with a slight residual sugar.
Alfredo Arribas show while Andreu Padró from La Rural watches
Architect Alfredo Arribas is quite new on the Catalan wine scene, having taken over the family’s vineyards in 2001 founded his bodega in 08. But he has made himself heard. His two main series are Siuralta, mostly monovarietal wines from Montsant and Instabiles, more free-spirited wines from Priorat. The vineyards are in Cornudella de Montsant, in the north of the Priorat region, and the grapes are vinified in the winery in Falset. Arribas’ project is a response to the challenges of climatic change, seeking higher altitude vineyards, more shade and rainfall, biodiversity and more.
For Siuralta grapes from the highest vineyards are spontaneously fermented in whole clusters with stems in small steel tanks and amphorae in various shapes. The grapes for Instabile are spontaneously fermented mainly in whole clusters with short peel maceration. The wines are matured in small cement tanks and amphorae of ceramics, porcelain or glass. Different vintages are mixed in some cases by bottling.
Let’s taste the Siuralta Antic2019, a varietal cariñena: Deep red; cool, fresh fruit, dark and wild berries (blackberry, elderberry), a hint of pepper; luscious/fleshy in the mouth, carried by a long acidity, beautifully integrated tannins, more to the mineral side.
Ephraim ame Roc Orengo, father and son
I didn’t know Sifer Wines, but it clearly is a winery to watch. (See also a mention of their Ephraim Mel garnacha blanca here.) Sifer, the name made up from two last names, has vineyards both in Terra Alta’s Batea and in Teruel, Aragón. Among their expressive, vibrant entries were Víbria Soul 2021, a macabeu made in amphora and steel. It’s light, quite turbid, with pear and white fruits and a super acidity.
Joshua Kniesel and Josie Cleeve of Cap de NIt, Alicante
Cap de Nit is a young family winery that produces wines in the Marina Alta in the north of the province of Alicante. Josh and Josie started the project in 2017, looking for old vineyards of native varieties, to work them in strict organic farming. The vineyards are mostly located in the Vall de Xaló, in the coastal mountains. The small plots are hidden between plantations of almond, orange and olive trees. Work in the field and in the manual warehouse. – The wines are made naturally, fermentation is spontaneous, temperature is not controlled and the wines remain on the mother lees throughout the ageing. No type of additive is applied. The fermentation and aging is done in 500 liter clay pots and stainless steel tanks. They work with different degrees of maceration. At the end the wines are bottled by gravity. – Grape varieties: muscat of alexandria and giró
Rubén Salamanca and Elisa de Frutos, Malaparte
The real name is Bodega de Frutos Marín, but this producer is most often called Malaparte, after its most famous label. Rubén and Elisa cultivate 5.5 ha of vineyards near Cuéllar, in the province of Segovia. They employ various techniques, such as tanks, old barrels and amphoras. All vineyards are farmed dry.
This is close to Ribera del Duero. Nevertheless, and in spite of a lovely amphora-aged tempranillo, I would say they are mostly a white wine producer, offering verdejo and viura in several fashions. Maybe because I am currently working on an article about the historical wines of the lands of Medina, I chose OX. This is obviously an abbreviation of oxidative, a feature of the “dorado” wines. It is a mix of varieties (I will check, but typical, and recommended in DO Rueda are verdejo and palomino fino), 65 year old vines. The wine rested one year under “flor”, and was then transferred to “damajuanas” (big bottles, demijohns in English). It arrives naturally at 14%, and is not fortified. It has all the yeast, almonds, dried fruits aromas that one night expect, and in the mouth it’s glyceric – and more fruity than its sherry equivalents.
Aitor Irazu, Makatzak
Makatzak Wild Wines is a Basque project found in Aia (Guipuzcoa), near Zarauz, that really has impressed me. Here is no talk about conditions “not favourable for organic growing in our region”, as we often hear. Aitor Irazu Alonso started the winery with his cousin. Here he manages the Sorgintxulo vineyard, that after being abandoned for 5 years now is restored. It is an ecosystem of 3 hectares of vineyards, whose main variety is the hondarrabi zuri. Atlantic climate with high rainfall, mainly southern exposure, steep slopes and slate soils are the main characteristics. The work is based on ecological, natural, regenerative and biodynamic agriculture. Makatzak are now receiving their organic certification, and will later aim also for a biodynamic one.
Sorkin 2021 is light in colour, has an aroma of green apple and bright citrus, and comes with a wonderful acidity. It’s a natural txakolí that’s “impeccably clean”, I imagine the classic British writers would have said. A prime example of the growing natural wine scene in Spain.
Pepe Mendoza was one of the vintners that didn’t expose, but came to the fair to taste and talk to colleagues. I met accidentally in the entrance line.
End of Day 1. I bring my glass back to the hotel in a bag provided by accessory distributor Pulltex. See you in next post, where you meet a bunch of “foreign” producers.
