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Trepat Trip II: Mas Foraster

Located just outside Montblanc in the heart of Conca de Barberà, Mas Foraster, also called Josep Foraster, is a family-run estate that has become one of the leading names in the revival of trepat – the region’s native red grape. Founded in 1998, the winery is now run by Ricard Sebastià Foraster, who not only oversees the estate but also serves as president of the Consejo Regulador of the DO Conca de Barberà. “Josep was both my grandfather and my uncle,” says Ricard.

Kepa and Ricard

The estate currently covers 34 hectares – 27 owned and the rest leased – and only estate-grown grapes are used. All vineyards are farmed organically, and biodynamic compost is applied. Elevations range from 280 to 550 metres around Montblanc, and up to 650 meters around Sarral and on the other side of the mountains. These high altitudes, along with calcareous and clay-rich soils, contribute to the wines’ freshness and clarity. According to Ricard, while clay brings more yield, calcareous soils provide greater concentration – but above all, it’s the cool climate that trepat needs.

Trepat, traditionally used in rosado and cava, is now taking centre stage. Mas Foraster has been a key player in this transformation, releasing their first red trepat in 2009 – the second on the market after Carles Andreu. Their red trepats are fermented spontaneously, with a 40-day maceration that continues even after fermentation ends. Sulphite levels are kept low, always under 40 mg/l, and ageing takes place exclusively in used barrels, foudres or concrete eggs.

The current range of trepat-based wines is wide and expressive:

Les Gallinetes 2024 (55% trepat, 45% garnatxa) is a light, juicy red with aroma of red berries, with fine tannins and a smooth, easy-drinking style.

Trepat 2023, made from seven old vineyards (60–96 years), grown in calcareous soils, undergoes long maceration in foudre and barrique. Ruby in colour, it shows red forest fruits and white pepper, with freshness, finesse and length.

Julieta 2023, named after Ricard’s mother and his daughter, from a single north-facing vineyard planted in 1940 at 450 metres, is aged seven months in concrete eggs. With aromas of raspberry and flowers, it has more structure and weight, firm tannins and a long, lingering finish.

Pep 2022, from 86-year-old vines at 580 metres, is made with whole clusters, foot-trodden in alabaster tanks. Light cherry red, the wine shows red fruits and herbs, with firm yet juicy structure and real depth.

Ricard

In addition to red wines, Mas Foraster also makes noteworthy whites and skin-contact styles:

Blanc Selecció 2023 is a blend of macabeu, chardonnay and garnatxa gris. The wine is fermented in concrete eggs and sees some skin contact in foudre. Pale yellow with green hints, it shows citrus, yellow apple, good volume and bright acidity.

Brisat del Coster 2023, an orange wine made from macabeu (some of which also goes into the Blanc Selecció), undergoes 25 days of skin contact in steel and concrete, with no added sulphites. Golden in hue, it offers notes of citrus peel, flowers, herbs and apricot, with light tannins and a textured, fresh palate. Ricard notes that macabeu, with its lower oxidative character than garnatxa gris, results in a lighter colour.

Kepa

The cellar is overseen by Kepa Martínez, whose mother is from the Basque Country, hence the name Kepa. Fermentations are spontaneous and temperature-controlled by natural means – “fermentation starts when the temperature rises,” says Ricard.

With a clear focus on trepat and a deep commitment to sustainable farming and precision winemaking, Mas Foraster stands as one of the most respected producers in the Conca de Barberà today – a house where tradition, innovation and identity converge.

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Articles

Trepat Trip I: Trepat takes the lead

I visited Conca de Barberà to witness how the grape trepat is being brought into the spotlight. The event was organised by the communication and public relations agency Mahala in collaboration with the local wine authorities.

Montblanc, where the local Consejo Regulador has its offices

Trepat has been cultivated in Conca de Barberà for centuries. Before phylloxera it counted for one third of the planted area. Now it has long been overlooked in favour of grapes like garnatxa and tempranillo. Traditionally used in rosé and cava, it is now revealing its potential for elegant, fresh and spicy red wines. The grape thrives in calcareous and clay-rich soils, and the cool nights of the region help preserve its natural acidity.


Typically low in alcohol, trepat offers high acidity, floral and spicy notes, and an earthy undertone. Winemakers are increasingly experimenting with whole-bunch fermentation, carbonic maceration, amphora and concrete eggs to highlight the grape’s unique personality. At the same time, organic and biodynamic practices are gaining ground.

Bernat and Carles Andreu

A pioneer of the modern trepat in Conca de Barberà was Celler Carles Andreu, who made the first single-varietal red wine from the grape back in 2004. They were among the first to believe in its potential. Today led by Carles’ son Bernat, I particularly like their young unoaked trepats, that display finesse, delicate berry fruit, herbal touches and a distinctive peppery finish.

Mas Foraster has also made trepat a signature, using organic cultivation and often working with whole clusters and gentle extraction to emphasise elegance. Led by Ricard Sebastià Foraster, they make fresh trepats, with hints of raspberry, rose petals and light tannins. But with their Julieta – the name of both Ricard’s mother and daughter – they also offer a slightly more structured version of the grape.

Patrick Webb and Roger Gili, Vidbertus

Vidbertus represents a new generation of winemakers focused on organic viticulture and minimal intervention in the cellar. Their pure trepats, like Elixir, reflect the limestone soils of Conca de Barberà, showing vibrant acidity and a spicy profile.

Josep Serra and Marta Pedra

Marta Pedra of Vins de Pedra practises organic viticulture and is in the process of certification. The wines carry a unique label design, created by her godfather and changed each year. Trempat sees careful use of new French oak, resulting in a wine that’s light and fragrant with red fruits, but also with refreshing menthol and liquorice and a delicate peppery note. An outdoor lunch at the farm offered a generous taste of everything grown and crafted on site—from freshly baked bread to fragrant olive oil and vibrant vegetables.

Rendé Masdéu, which lost its historic winery in the floods of 2019, has continued its work with trepat from a new facility. They produce both rosé and red styles with a balance between tradition and modernity.

Inma Soler, Mas de La Pansa

Then there is Mas de La Pansa, a small-scale producer making limited quantities of artisanal trepat. Inma Soler focuses on organic cultivation, spontaneous fermentation, skin contact, and ageing in old oak or stainless steel. Her dessert wine Trepat Dulce was a winner at the final dinner.

We witnessed the modernist architecture of the region’s cooperatives, among the oldest in Spain, in buildings by Cèsar Martinell. But more than that: The cooperatives have also played an important role in keeping trepat alive. Castell D’Or, Cellers Domenys and Vinícola de Sarral have used the grape in their cava blends for decades. Now, they are also exploring its potential for elegant, varietal wines in both rosé and red styles.

The Monastery of Poblet


The grape’s recent evolution in Conca de Barberà suggests a promising future. It would be perfect in today’s trendy bars. I would say it so far is at best in its young and unoaked versions. With growing attention from both winemakers and enthusiasts, this once-overlooked variety may well be on the path to a full-blown renaissance—not only in Spain, but on the international stage.

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Wine of the Week

Gracefully aged Valtellina

My daughter was born in 1999. Many years ago I collected a case of wines to give her at her 18th birthday. The last of these we had the opportunity to enjoy together last week.

High in the northern reaches of Lombardy, where the Alps rise toward Switzerland, lies Valtellina – a region often overlooked in favour of its more famous Nebbiolo siblings from Piemonte. But for those who take the time to explore it, Valtellina offers singular wines that speak softly but persistently. One such wine is Il Pettirosso, made by Ar.Pe.Pe., a family producer whose dedication to alpine Nebbiolo is both steadfast and poetic.

Ar.Pe.Pe. stands for Arturo Pelizzatti Perego, the man who, in 1984, reclaimed the family’s historic vineyards and gave new life to a tradition dating back to the 1860s. Today, the winery is in the hands of his children – Isabella, Emanuele, and Guido – who continue to work the steep terraces of Sassella and Grumello with a mix of devotion and defiance. In these dramatic landscapes, handwork isn’t just a choice, it’s a necessity.

Il Pettirosso is often seen as the most graceful expression in the Ar.Pe.Pe. range – low sulphite, spontaneous fermentation, a cuvée that blends fruit from both Sassella and Grumello, and aged in large old botti before further ageing in bottle. It is not the most powerful wine, nor the most structured. But what it offers is clarity, nuance, and a kind of unforced beauty that rewards patience.

Il Pettirosso 1999 (Ar.Pe.Pe.)

Pale brick red with amber highlights, translucent and delicate. The nose opens with dried rose petals, truffle, orange peel and forest floor, followed by a gentle smokiness and a whisper of Alpine herbs. On the palate, the wine is featherlight yet persistent, with fine, resolved tannins and a graceful acidity that carries flavours of sour cherry, tea leaf, and balsamic nuances. The finish is long, echoing the wine’s mountain origins and meditative age. A wine not of volume, but of resonance.

Price: Medium

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Wine bars and restaurants

Barcelona’s Bar Brutal

A night at Bar Brutal is never just a dinner—it’s a performance. An ever-evolving stage for natural wine, where flavour pairings are exploratory rather than prescriptive, and the sommelier often plays as crucial a role as the chef. On this occasion, guided by the sharp and intuitive Sebastián, I tasted through four wines against three small plates—an informal experiment that revealed unexpected harmonies and tensions.

Bar Brutal, also known as Can Cisa, is one of Barcelona’s pioneering natural wine bars. Opened in 2013 in the El Born district, it was founded by Joan Valencia (of Cuvée 3000) together with Max and Stefano Colombo of Xemei. The focus is on organic and low-intervention wines from Spain and beyond, paired with a lively, Mediterranean-inspired kitchen that highlights seasonal produce.

Kazu 2023 (Umineko Jozo)

From vineyards in Conca de Barberà and Penedès, this wine poured a hazy, pale pinkish-grey—grapefruit juice with a faint golden cast. The nose was floral and citrus-led, with subtle hints of fresh herbs. On the palate, it showed unexpected weight, balanced by clean acidity and a slight phenolic grip. It worked beautifully with zamburiñas—small scallops served with smoky butter and herbs—bringing out a soft sweetness in the shellfish and lending structure without overwhelming the dish.

Jaumet 2023 (Jaume Prats)

From Santa Margalida on Mallorca, made from the red nanto negro, calley and fogoneu, and the white premsal, malvasía and moscatel. Slightly deeper in hue, Jaumet offered aromas of citrus peel and dried orange, with a faint oxidative edge. Its structure was taut and precise, marked by bracing acidity and a long, blood orange finish. It paired brilliantly with mojama—salt-cured tuna—where its sharpness sliced through the dense, iron-rich fish, and the wine’s bitterness mirrored the umami-laden finish of the dish. One of the evening’s most compelling pairings.

Vent Debout 2024 (Domaine Yoyo)

A carignan from Languedoc-Roussillon, direct press, fermented in inox and short time in barriques of 6th use. Clean and pink but bordering on copper, this rosé smelled of raspberry and wild strawberry. Though fruit-driven on the nose, it showed a firm backbone and a savoury streak that came into focus with food. Sebastián confidently recommended it with labneh, and he was right. The creamy, tangy yoghurt seemed made for the wine’s structured acidity. A pairing that felt both precise and generous—like a well-judged chord with just enough tension to be interesting.

Rød 2023 (Bodega Frontio)

Rød, meaning red in Danish, is a garnacha made by Thyge “Chus” Jensen in Arribes. A deep cherry-red wine, Rød was fragrant with red berries—cherry and raspberry—alongside dried herbs and a touch of earth. On the palate, it was fresh and quietly structured, with fine tannins and well-integrated acidity. I had saved a slice of mojama for this wine, and it was a surprisingly successful match. The salt and depth of the tuna played against the wine’s herbal core and supple fruit. With rustic bread and good olive oil, the whole combination felt grounded, unpretentious and complete.

Bar Brutal continues to live up to its name—raw, real, and a little chaotic in the best way. With Sebastián as guide, the wines led the conversation, and the food responded in kind. It was not a menu, but a dialogue—one in which the wines were given room to speak, and where not all pairings needed to resolve. Sometimes, tension is the most expressive note of all.

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Wine of the Week

Between volcanic stones on Pico

On an island shaped by lava flows and stone-walled vineyards, we find Entre Pedras—a producer whose name, meaning “between stones”, is a fitting tribute to Pico’s volcanic terrain, where vines cling to life just metres from the Atlantic Ocean.

Arinto dos açores is not a clone of the mainland arinto but a distinct, ancient variety indigenous to the Azores. Perfectly adapted to the challenges of Pico—high humidity, saline winds, and meagre soils—it thrives in biscoitos, traditional plots carved into black basalt. Each vine grows within low stone enclosures, or currais, which protect against ocean winds and salt spray. The roots penetrate fissures in the lava rock, drawing mineral intensity from deep within the earth.

Entre Pedras is the project of André Ribeiro and his partner Ricardo Pinto, who bring a deep respect for Pico’s winemaking heritage alongside a clear commitment to purity and site expression. The vineyards are farmed by hand, and fermentation is carried out with native yeasts, allowing the grapes and volcanic soils to speak for themselves. The 2022 vintage was fermented in stainless steel and aged on fine lees—a method that builds texture while preserving freshness and clarity.

Arinto dos Açores 2022 (Entre Pedras)

Bright pale gold in the glass. The nose is saline and stony, with notes of lime and green apple skin. On the palate, it’s razor-sharp and electric, driven by a vibrant core of acidity. There’s a subtle creaminess, underpinned by a fine, chalky texture. Persistent and mouthwatering—this is a wine of clarity, precision, and tension.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Heights of Ávila

Aurelio García and Micaela Rubio, both chemists and oenologists from the province of Cuenca, have expanded their winemaking efforts to include the high-altitude vineyards of the Sierra de Gredos in Ávila, particularly around the village of Navatalgordo. Here, the vineyards are situated at elevations between 1100 and 1300 meters, with granitic soils that vary in decomposition, texture, and orientation. The region’s continental mountain climate, marked by long, snowy winters and cool summers that extend into autumn, offers ideal conditions for cultivating old vines. Many of the vineyards in this area were abandoned following the Spanish Civil War and remained untouched for decades, providing Aurelio and Micaela with the opportunity to work with 80-year-old garnacha tinta vines. Their focus in Gredos is to explore the distinctive characteristics of each site, particularly how soil type and exposure influence the flavor and texture of the wines.

+Altitud is a village wine from Ávila, sourced from 40 plots located between 1100 and 1300 meters, making them some of the highest vineyards on the Iberian Peninsula. The wine is made from 98% garnacha tinta, with 2% white table grapes blended in. Each parcel is vinified separately based on soil type, and the wine is aged for 14 to 15 months in a mix of 60% concrete, 20% silica/clay, and 20% used 500-litre barrels.

+Altitud 2021 (A. García & M. Rubio)

Delicate, almost ethereal wine. Light in both colour and body. Aromas of red berries (raspberry, wild strawberry), complemented by subtle floral notes. It is aromatic, complex, and light on its feet, with a granite-derived texture and a distinctive mineral finish.

Price: Medium

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Articles

Wine Club tasting of Aurelio García’s wines

Aurelio García is one of the most attentive and thoughtful voices in modern Central Spanish wine. Together with his partner, Micaela Rubio, he works across three regions—Cuenca, Ávila, and Soria—always with a focus on old vineyards, native varieties, and minimal intervention. His wines are precise, expressive, and deeply rooted in place.

When a case from Aurelio García arrived in the post, two bottles had sadly broken in transit. Still, four remained intact—and with those, I took the opportunity to gather my wine club for a focused tasting. We added a few complementary wines for context, but the stars of the evening were clearly Aurelio’s own: La Infanta, +Altitud, Alto de la Cruz, and La Guía. Though we missed out on El Reflejo and Mikaela, the tasting offered a vivid insight into Aurelio’s style across three distinct regions.

Me and Aurelio in the La Infanta parcel, summer of ’23

La Infanta 2021 – Cuenca
Cuenca here refers to the Ribera del Júcar zone, though Aurelio prefers not to label his wines under the DO, opting for greater freedom. La Infanta comes from a single parcel in Casas de Benítez and is made from 60% bobal and 40% co-planted local varieties.
Delicate and complex, it showed dark berry fruit (dark cherry and plum) on the nose, along with herbal notes, a hint of tar, and a taut, mineral texture. A slightly bitter aftertaste added grip. There was a quiet power to it—restrained, yet full of energy.

+Altitud 2021 – Ávila
A village wine from the granite soils of Navatalgordo in the Sierra de Gredos.
Light in colour and body, almost ethereal, it offered notes of raspberry, wild strawberry, and flowers, with a fine, lacy texture. This was the most immediately charming wine of the tasting, with several tasters noting its vibrant fruit and finesse.

Alto de la Cruz 2022 – Ávila
Also from Navatalgordo, but from a cooler, north-facing valley.
Though paler in colour, this wine showed more structure and depth. It opened with herbal tones, redcurrant and floral aromatics, then narrowed into a vertical, mineral finish. There was more volume here, likely from clay soils, with fine-grained tannins and underlying tension.

La Guía 2021 – Soria
From Matanza de Soria, a high-altitude village in the eastern part of Ribera del Duero.
A blend of tinto fino (tempranillo) and albillo mayor from pre-phylloxera vines, it combined red and dark fruits with floral lift and a subtle hint of nuts. Velvety on the palate, cool and juicy at the core—it struck a fine balance between seriousness and drinkability. For me, this was the most complete wine of the night: subtle, savoury, and quietly profound. Meanwhile, +Altitud stood out for sheer charm and drinkability.
While La Infanta and La Guía come in serious bottles with serious price tags, the wines from Gredos are outstanding value for money.

What We Missed

We didn’t get to taste El Reflejo or Mikaela, but here’s what they might have brought to the table:

El Reflejo is Aurelio’s village wine from Cuenca—a blend of bobal and co-planted varieties from around 25 parcels. Fruit-driven and supple, it offers dark and red berries, with freshness and an approachable style.

Mikaela, named after his wife and winemaking partner, is a paraje wine from deeper, pebble-rich soils. Made with whole clusters and aged in foudres, it shows juicy, concentrated fruit with a mineral streak—lively and taut.

Micaela, Celia and Aurelio, summer of ’23

Each wine carried the mark of its place, but all shared a sense of purity, restraint, and precision. Interestingly, my fellow tasters had no difficulty identifying which of the three regions each wine came from—even though the wines were, of course, tasted blind. That in itself is a mark of quality, and a testament to the clarity of Aurelio García’s site expression. Even in the absence of the two missing bottles, the tasting was a clear reminder that Aurelio García is crafting some of Spain’s most thoughtful and terroir-driven wines.

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Wine of the Week

A glimpse into the greatness

I am not among the ranks of those who follow Bourgogne closely. One reason is that I do my best to keep up with what happens other places, such as the Iberian Peninsula. I could also mention the prices. But then, Bourgogne Côte-d’Or has emerged as an exciting category for wine lovers seeking high-quality wines at more accessible prices than the prestigious appellations. What is more, the director of my local wine shop is a highly regarded expert on Bourgogne. So at a major release of Burgundies, from DRC and downwards, he said that this was a must try.

I have learned that Bouzereau is based in Meursault, where he makes elegant white wines from that appellation. The estate is now run by Michel’s son, Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau. He follows organic practices in the vineyard and employs a gentle winemaking approach to preserve the finesse of the fruit. Bouzereau employs a restrained use of new oak to preserve the wine’s elegance.

The grapes for this wine come from selected plots in the Côte de Beaune. The 2022 vintage was warm, yet retained enough freshness to ensure balance in the wines. The grapes are hand-harvested, partly destemmed and fermented with indigenous yeasts in open-top vats. This cuvée saw one year in barrel, 15% new.

Bourgogne Côte-d’Or Pinot Noir 2022 (Michel Bouzereau)

Bright ruby with hints of violet. Aroma of red berries (cherry, raspberry), floral notes and subtle spice. Fresh and delicate in the mouth, with vibrant red fruit, balanced acidity, fine-grained tannins, with a gentle earthiness. A refined, terroir-driven pinot noir with purity of fruit and silky tannins. Beautiful already, but will evolve over the next few years.

Price: Medium

Food: Light meat (veal), roasted duck breast, or a classic wild mushroom risotto

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Wine of the Week

Álvar’s Aciano, a new approach for Toro

In Toro Álvar de Dios Hernández is taking a new approach, while also respecting the region’s heritage. His journey began in 2008 when he took over a century-old vineyard from his grandfather, situated in El Pego, Zamora. This vineyard, with its sandy soils, survived the phylloxera plague, allowing the ungrafted vines planted in 1919 to thrive. In honor of his grandfather, affectionately known as Aciano, Álvar crafted a wine that encapsulates both familial legacy and the distinct terroir of the place.

Aciano 2018 is a fruit of Álvar’s commitment to sustainable viticulture and minimal intervention winemaking. Produced from tinta de toro (tempranillo) grapes, the wine undergoes natural yeast fermentation, with 60% whole clusters included. It is then aged for 12 months in neutral French oak barrels ranging from 300 to 600 liters. The result is a wine that stands out in the Toro appellation for its elegance and finesse, diverging from the region’s typically robust style. I hope this could be the future.

Aciano 2018 (Álvar de Dios)

Dark cherry red. Aromatic herbs, wild berries, and floral notes, exuding freshness and restrained ripeness. On the palate, the wine offers a chalky minerality, a fresh acidity and grainy, sandy tannins that reflect the vineyard’s soil. Good concentration and decent length.

Price: Medium

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Articles

Rising from the Ashes: Tavares de Pina’s fight

In September 2024, João Tavares de Pina’s estate, Quinta da Boavista in Penalva do Castelo, Portugal, was devastated by a wildfire. The blaze reduced the family home to ashes and destroyed 85% of the vineyards.

To support João and his family during this challenging time, friends and colleagues organized several solidarity initiatives. Among them was a wine lottery, where winemakers from various countries donated special bottles to raise funds for the reconstruction of Quinta da Boavista. Additionally, a GoFundMe campaign was launched to provide further support.

At Simplesmente Vinho 2025, João presented a wine as part of his own crowdfunding project. Terras de Tavares Reserva 2004, made from touriga nacional, jaen and rufete, is a richly textured and mature wine—dark with brown hues at the edges—offering aromas of ripe and dried fruits, plums, and prunes, alongside flavors of ripe berries, spices, and dark chocolate, with silky tannins. The project itself is well worth supporting, but the wine is also truly exceptional.

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