Produced by Vinyes Singulars in the hills of Alt Penedès, Catalunya, this wine reflects a landscape that is often overshadowed by Cava but is increasingly recognised for its vibrant, terroir-driven still wines. Old vineyards, limestone and clay soils, Mediterranean sunshine tempered by cooler nights and sea breezes all contribute to the wine’s freshness and energy.
The estate is run by Ignasi Seguí, whose family has cultivated these lands since the early 15th century. Farming is organic, and the philosophy in the cellar is one of minimal intervention: indigenous yeasts, no fining or filtration, and no added sulphites. Pim Pam is a field blend of traditional local varieties including xarel·lo, macabeu, parellada, malvasia de Sitges, garnatxa blanca and sumoll blanc, creating a wine that captures both the vintage and the character of Penedès.
Pim Pam 2023 (Vinyes Singulars)
Lightly hazy with a deep golden straw colour. Salty lemon, ripe citrus, melon, Mediterranean herbs, white flowers and a subtle savoury, nutty nuance. On the palate it’s fresh yet textural, with lively acidity, citrus fruit, mineral salinity and a gentle phenolic grip. The finish is long, savoury and remarkably refreshing.
Priorat is often associated with powerful reds grown on the region’s dramatic llicorella slate soils, but white wines have long been part of its history. Terroir Històric Blanc 2023 is an attempt to capture the essence of the entire appellation through fruit sourced from old family vineyards spread across several villages in Priorat. The rugged landscape, steep slopes and poor slate soils give the wines their distinctive mineral character.
The wine is made by Terroir al Límit, the project founded by Dominik Huber in Torroja del Priorat. Since its inception, the estate has championed a less extracted and more transparent expression of Priorat, focusing on site rather than power. The Històric range was created to showcase the wider region and to support traditional vineyards and local growers.
The 2023 vintage is a blend of approximately 75% garnacha blanca and 25% macabeo. Fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts, largely using whole clusters, followed by maturation in concrete and stainless steel vessels without new oak. The aim is freshness, texture and a clear sense of place rather than winemaking artefacts.
Terroir Històric Blanc 2023(Terroir al Límit)
In the glass, the wine shows a pale straw colour with bright reflections. The nose offers citrus peel, white peach, apricot, Mediterranean herbs and a subtle saline note. On the palate it is textured yet energetic, combining ripe orchard fruit with vibrant acidity and a distinctly mineral backbone. The finish is long, savoury and lightly salty, leaving an impression of both freshness and depth.
6 October is International Orange Wine Day, a celebration of a style that is both ancient and newly revived. By fermenting white grapes on their skins, winemakers create wines that blur the line between white and red: textured, often amber-hued, and full of unexpected aromas. What was once an old tradition in parts of Georgia, Friuli and beyond has become a contemporary expression of artisanal winemaking worldwide.
Catalonia, with its patchwork of landscapes and long history of experimentation, has embraced this revival with conviction. The region’s native grapes reveal strikingly different characters when handled as orange wines. Malvasía de Sitges, often floral and delicate, transforms into something more savoury, saline and spiced, its aromatic charm shaded by texture and grip. Macabeu, usually restrained and discreet in cava and still whites, gains depth and a surprising nutty, almost oxidative complexity. Garnatxa blanca, typically generous and rounded, might take on a more energetic profile, showcasing both a redish colour, a tannic backbone and subtle bitterness from the skins. A forth grape, xarel.lo, is not present here. That grape is worthy of a thematical evening of its own.
Tabla Rrasa Nèc-Tar 2021 (Portal del Priorat, Alfredo Arribas) Montsant – malvasía, seven days’ skin maceration, stainless steel
Golden, amber hue and slightly turbid, with a faint natural spritz that lifts the aromas. The nose recalls ripe apple, mango and wild herbs, with a faintly spicy edge. On the palate it is bright and linear, its high acidity wrapped in a fine, lightly phenolic texture. A whisper of bitterness on the finish gives it definition and length. This is a vivid, energetic take on malvasía, where the variety’s usual floral charm gives way to something more tactile and savoury.
Brisat del Coster 2020 (Josep Foraster) Conca de Barberà – macabeu, low yield, 21 days’ skin maceration
Deep golden in colour, with aromas of orange peel, chamomile and yellow orchard fruit. The palate is dry and quietly firm, with a gentle tannic frame and notes of citrus peel, quince and a touch of butter and almonds from the long maceration. Structured yet understated, it shows how macabeu can move from neutral backbone to expressive texture when treated as brisat – the Catalan word for orange wine.
Trementinaire 2019 (Herència Altés) Terra Alta – garnatxa blanca, macerated during fermentation, then pressed and aged 22 months in used oak
Pale gold with amber glints. The nose opens with orange zest, dried herbs and toasted nuts. Broad and glyceric on the palate, yet balanced by a subtle salinity and a delicate bitterness that keeps it taut. Layers of hazelnut, honeycomb and iodine unfold with air, giving a sense of power and maturity. A contemplative wine.
Orange wine is, after all, about rediscovery — of grapes, of methods, of flavours once thought forgotten. In Catalonia, that rediscovery feels both rooted and new. Here’s to continued curiosity — and a happy International Orange Wine Day.
In the rolling hills of Priorat, Ester Nin and Carles Ortiz employ biodynamic farming, working their steep terraces with a mix of old wisdom and scientific precision. Their Planetes vineyard sits at 400 metres, rooted in the famous llicorella slate, and is farmed without chemicals or irrigation. Fermentation takes place with native yeasts, followed by ageing in large foudres to let the grape and site speak clearly.
Made from garnatxa that here in Priorat reveals a leaner, more chiselled side of the grape, with purity of red fruit and a stony backbone from the slate soils.
Planetes Garnatxes 2020(Nin-Ortiz)
In the glass it shows a bright, translucent ruby with a lively sheen. Aromas of wild strawberries, pomegranate and dried herbs, with hints of rose petals and a subtle mineral edge. On the palate it’s fresh and precise, with fine tannins, red fruit purity and a long, stony finish.
No trip to Murcia is complete without visiting La Gracia wine bar. This wine was among several gems that Cristina, one of the owners, offered me this time.
Pregadéu is a 100% xarel·lo, grown organically in the limestone soils of the Alt Penedès and fermented using the ancestral method—capturing a natural sparkle with no added sulphur or sugar.
Els Vinyerons is the passion project of Alex Ruiz Masachs and Amós Bañeres. Alex is a fourth-generation producer who spends his spare time rebelling against convention. Amós left pharmacy to take over his grandfather’s vines. Together, they focus on local varieties, expressive terroirs, and wines they genuinely want to drink.
Pregadéu 2023 (Els Vinyerons Vins Naturals)
Pale lemon with fine mousse. Aromas of bruised apple, fennel and sea breeze. Dry, saline and textured, with a savoury, mineral finish that lingers long after the fizz fades.
The wine cooperatives of Conca de Barberà are among the most distinctive in Spain, not only for their role in reviving viticulture after the phylloxera crisis, but also for their unique architectural identity. Often referred to as wine cathedrals, these buildings are part of a movement that combined function, modernist design and social ambition in rural Catalonia in the early 20th century.
Credit: Cellers Domenys
During the 19th century, the so-called “Catalan Gold Rush” led to vineyards becoming almost the sole crop in Conca de Barberà. The region’s fertile soils and reliable water sources enabled it to meet the soaring demand for wine and spirits from Northern Europe and the Americas. But the prosperity was short-lived. In 1893, phylloxera struck the region, devastating the vineyards and pushing growers into crisis.
Recognising the need for collective action, the Sociedad de Trabajadores Agrícolas del Pueblo de Barberá was formed in 1894 – the first agricultural cooperative in all of Spain. This initiative laid the foundation for a cooperative tradition that would define the region. By 1902, leadership of the movement had passed to Josep M. Rendé from Espluga de Francolí, who played a crucial role in expanding cooperativism throughout La Conca.
The winery in the town of Barberà was established in 1903 and is considered the first purpose-built cooperative winery in Spain. In 1912, during the Commonwealth of Catalonia, Josep M. Rendé also initiated the construction of his hometown’s winery – a modernist building designed by Pere Domènec i Roure. It was this building that prompted the poet Àngel Guimerà to give these structures their enduring nickname: wine cathedrals.
Between 1912 and 1919, architects Pere Domènec and Cèsar Martinell, a disciple of Antoni Gaudí, designed six modernist wineries in Conca de Barberà. Martinell in particular combined traditional Catalan construction techniques, such as brick vaulting, with the functional needs of a working cellar. His designs allowed for gravity-fed vinification, optimal temperature control, and included large arched windows for ventilation. These buildings were meant not only to serve winemaking, but to uplift and dignify the rural working class at a time of great economic difficulty.
After the Spanish Civil War, the Barberà Agricultural Society merged with the Agricultural Trade Union, forming the Barberà de la Conca Agricultural Cooperative, which became one of the region’s most important winemaking institutions.
During my trip in Conca de Barberà I visited Castell D’Or (Cooperativa de L’Espluga de Francolí), Cellers Domenys (Sindicat Agricol de Rocafort de Queralt), the first one to be drawn by Cèsar Martinell in 1918, and Vinícola de Sarral – all of them among the most important cooperatives in the region. Though now operating under larger umbrella structures, each has deep roots in the cooperative history of the region. They have played a crucial role in preserving the trepat grape, traditionally used in rosé and cava blends, and are now turning their attention to making varietal red wines that reflect the character of the local terroir. Their continued investment in both tradition and modernisation shows that the cooperative spirit in Conca de Barberà is very much alive.
The modernist wineries of Conca de Barberà remain striking examples of how architectural vision and collective resilience came together in response to crisis. They are not only monuments to the past, but dynamic institutions shaping the future of Catalan wine.
Trepat 2024 (Castell D’Or) – Made in stainless steel. Light ruby in colour. Aromas of red berries and Mediterranean herbs. On the palate it is clean and fresh, with light tannins and a soft, dry finish. A very pure and accessible expression of young trepat.
Tres Naus Brut(Cellers Domenys), 2022, but labelled non-vintage – A blend of parellada, macabeu and xarel·lo, aged 18 months on the lees. Light in body with fine bubbles. Aromas of apple, citrus zest, hay and a touch of yeasty complexity. On the palate, lively acidity balances soft fruit, resulting in a bright and food-friendly sparkling wine.
Domenio Ull de Llebre 2021 (Cellers Domenys) – 100% ull de llebre from organic vineyards. Cherry red in colour. Aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry and wild herbs. On the palate, medium-bodied with a good balance of fruit and oak, and a hint of earthiness on the finish.
Portell Glatim Negre de Trepat 2022 (Vinícola de Sarral) – Made from organic trepat and aged four months in French and American oak. Light ruby hue. The nose offers redcurrant, cranberry, pepper and dried herbs. On the palate, it’s lively and savoury, with gentle oak, smooth texture and a fresh, spicy finish.
Located just outside Montblanc in the heart of Conca de Barberà, Mas Foraster, also called Josep Foraster, is a family-run estate that has become one of the leading names in the revival of trepat – the region’s native red grape. Founded in 1998, the winery is now run by Ricard Sebastià Foraster, who not only oversees the estate but also serves as president of the Consejo Regulador of the DO Conca de Barberà. “Josep was both my grandfather and my uncle,” says Ricard.
Kepa and Ricard
The estate currently covers 34 hectares – 27 owned and the rest leased – and only estate-grown grapes are used. All vineyards are farmed organically, and biodynamic compost is applied. Elevations range from 280 to 550 metres around Montblanc, and up to 650 meters around Sarral and on the other side of the mountains. These high altitudes, along with calcareous and clay-rich soils, contribute to the wines’ freshness and clarity. According to Ricard, while clay brings more yield, calcareous soils provide greater concentration – but above all, it’s the cool climate that trepat needs.
Trepat, traditionally used in rosado and cava, is now taking centre stage. Mas Foraster has been a key player in this transformation, releasing their first red trepat in 2009 – the second on the market after Carles Andreu. Their red trepats are fermented spontaneously, with a 40-day maceration that continues even after fermentation ends. Sulphite levels are kept low, always under 40 mg/l, and ageing takes place exclusively in used barrels, foudres or concrete eggs.
The current range of trepat-based wines is wide and expressive:
Les Gallinetes 2024 (55% trepat, 45% garnatxa) is a light, juicy red with aroma of red berries, with fine tannins and a smooth, easy-drinking style.
Trepat 2023, made from seven old vineyards (60–96 years), grown in calcareous soils, undergoes long maceration in foudre and barrique. Ruby in colour, it shows red forest fruits and white pepper, with freshness, finesse and length.
Julieta 2023, named after Ricard’s mother and his daughter, from a single north-facing vineyard planted in 1940 at 450 metres, is aged seven months in concrete eggs. With aromas of raspberry and flowers, it has more structure and weight, firm tannins and a long, lingering finish.
Pep 2022, from 86-year-old vines at 580 metres, is made with whole clusters, foot-trodden in alabaster tanks. Light cherry red, the wine shows red fruits and herbs, with firm yet juicy structure and real depth.
Ricard
In addition to red wines, Mas Foraster also makes noteworthy whites and skin-contact styles:
Blanc Selecció 2023 is a blend of macabeu, chardonnay and garnatxa gris. The wine is fermented in concrete eggs and sees some skin contact in foudre. Pale yellow with green hints, it shows citrus, yellow apple, good volume and bright acidity.
Brisat del Coster 2023, an orange wine made from macabeu (some of which also goes into the Blanc Selecció), undergoes 25 days of skin contact in steel and concrete, with no added sulphites. Golden in hue, it offers notes of citrus peel, flowers, herbs and apricot, with light tannins and a textured, fresh palate. Ricard notes that macabeu, with its lower oxidative character than garnatxa gris, results in a lighter colour.
Kepa
The cellar is overseen by Kepa Martínez, whose mother is from the Basque Country, hence the name Kepa. Fermentations are spontaneous and temperature-controlled by natural means – “fermentation starts when the temperature rises,” says Ricard.
With a clear focus on trepat and a deep commitment to sustainable farming and precision winemaking, Mas Foraster stands as one of the most respected producers in the Conca de Barberà today – a house where tradition, innovation and identity converge.
I visited Conca de Barberà to witness how the grape trepat is being brought into the spotlight. The event was organised by the communication and public relations agency Mahala in collaboration with the local wine authorities.
Montblanc, where the local Consejo Regulador has its offices
Trepat has been cultivated in Conca de Barberà for centuries. Before phylloxera it counted for one third of the planted area. Now it has long been overlooked in favour of grapes like garnatxa and tempranillo. Traditionally used in rosé and cava, it is now revealing its potential for elegant, fresh and spicy red wines. The grape thrives in calcareous and clay-rich soils, and the cool nights of the region help preserve its natural acidity.
Typically low in alcohol, trepat offers high acidity, floral and spicy notes, and an earthy undertone. Winemakers are increasingly experimenting with whole-bunch fermentation, carbonic maceration, amphora and concrete eggs to highlight the grape’s unique personality. At the same time, organic and biodynamic practices are gaining ground.
Bernat and Carles Andreu
A pioneer of the modern trepat in Conca de Barberà was Celler Carles Andreu, who made the first single-varietal red wine from the grape back in 2004. They were among the first to believe in its potential. Today led by Carles’ son Bernat, I particularly like their young unoaked trepats, that display finesse, delicate berry fruit, herbal touches and a distinctive peppery finish.
Mas Foraster has also made trepat a signature, using organic cultivation and often working with whole clusters and gentle extraction to emphasise elegance. Led by Ricard Sebastià Foraster, they make fresh trepats, with hints of raspberry, rose petals and light tannins. But with their Julieta – the name of both Ricard’s mother and daughter – they also offer a slightly more structured version of the grape.
Patrick Webb and Roger Gili, Vidbertus
Vidbertus represents a new generation of winemakers focused on organic viticulture and minimal intervention in the cellar. Their pure trepats, like Elixir, reflect the limestone soils of Conca de Barberà, showing vibrant acidity and a spicy profile.
Josep Serra and Marta Pedra
Marta Pedra of Vins de Pedra practises organic viticulture and is in the process of certification. The wines carry a unique label design, created by her godfather and changed each year. Trempat sees careful use of new French oak, resulting in a wine that’s light and fragrant with red fruits, but also with refreshing menthol and liquorice and a delicate peppery note. An outdoor lunch at the farm offered a generous taste of everything grown and crafted on site—from freshly baked bread to fragrant olive oil and vibrant vegetables.
Rendé Masdéu, which lost its historic winery in the floods of 2019, has continued its work with trepat from a new facility. They produce both rosé and red styles with a balance between tradition and modernity.
Inma Soler, Mas de La Pansa
Then there is Mas de La Pansa, a small-scale producer making limited quantities of artisanal trepat. Inma Soler focuses on organic cultivation, spontaneous fermentation, skin contact, and ageing in old oak or stainless steel. Her dessert wine Trepat Dulce was a winner at the final dinner.
We witnessed the modernist architecture of the region’s cooperatives, among the oldest in Spain, in buildings by Cèsar Martinell. But more than that: The cooperatives have also played an important role in keeping trepat alive. Castell D’Or, Cellers Domenys and Vinícola de Sarral have used the grape in their cava blends for decades. Now, they are also exploring its potential for elegant, varietal wines in both rosé and red styles.
The Monastery of Poblet
The grape’s recent evolution in Conca de Barberà suggests a promising future. It would be perfect in today’s trendy bars. I would say it so far is at best in its young and unoaked versions. With growing attention from both winemakers and enthusiasts, this once-overlooked variety may well be on the path to a full-blown renaissance—not only in Spain, but on the international stage.
Raventós i Blanc is one of the leading producers of sparkling wine in Catalunya. Pepe Raventós has family links to the creator of the drink that came to be called cava. Still he was one of the first to leave the DO Cava, to establish his own appellation Conca del Riu Anoia. It is located in the Penedés comarca (area), in a valley between the Prelitoral and Litoral mountain ranges.
Raventós i Blanc makes mineral and saline wines, at a quality that is incredibly stable. I have never been disappointed.
De la Finca comes from a vineyard known as Vinya dels Fòssils. The old bush-trained vines were planted in 1964 on the highest terraces of the Anoia, on a soil covered with marine fossils. The orientation is predominantly northern, and there is spontaneous plant covers, that contribute to bring freshness to the wine. Viticulture is biodynamic. The grapes are the traditional blend xarel.lo, macabeu and parellada. Each variety and soil is vinified separately before settling together.
De La Finca 2021 (Raventós i Blanc)
Light straw yellow with fine bubbles. Aromas of lemon, yeast, lime and brioche, over a layer of smoke and herbs. Mineral in the mouth, a little austere, with a fresh acidity, completely dry. It’s Mediterranean in its ripeness, but it also shows a fresh side. Wonderfully balanced.
The region of Conca de Barberà, nestled in Catalonia, is quietly asserting itself as a haven for fresh, vibrant wines with a strong sense of place. Last week I came across this wine called Pomagrana. Made entirely from trepat—a grape traditionally reserved for light rosés and sparkling wines—this is a red that embraces delicacy, drinkability, and a distinctive Mediterranean charm.
Lectores Vini is a collaboration between the itinerant winemaker Fredi Torres and Marc Lecha. Based in Catalonia, they focus on terroir-driven, minimalist wines made from the region’s native grape varieties. Their approach is organic, with minimal intervention in the cellar.
Pomagrana is vinified with minimal extraction, highlighting the naturally light colour and crisp acidity of the grape. Fermentation is spontaneous, ageing is brief and without oak, and sulphites are kept to a minimum.
Trepat has long been a grape in search of an identity. Traditionally, it played a supporting role in blends or appeared in light-bodied sparkling wines. However, some winemakers have begun exploring its potential as a stand-alone red. The grape’s naturally low tannins and bright acidity make it perfectly suited for the modern thirst for fresher, less-extracted reds—wines that can be served slightly chilled and enjoyed with or without food.
Pomagrana 2021 (Lectores Vini)
Light, almost transparent, red. The nose gives wild strawberries, pomegranate seeds, and rose petals, underscored by a layer of white pepper. On the palate, it is juicy, energetic, with crisp red fruit, a touch of cranberry-like tartness, and a mineral streak.The finish is bright, pure, and mouthwatering. It’s taut and refreshing, almost weightless.
