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This wine accompanied haggis at a recent private dinner. Maybe not as strange as it sounds, El Bierzo has its botillo, a pig intestine filled with sausages and spices, not very unlike the more famous Scottish national dish.
La Vizcaína is the project of Raúl Pérez and his nephew César Márquez.
La Poulosa is based on mencía, but it alto contains small percentages of grapes like bastardo and garnacha tintorera. They come from old vines between 60 and 80 years old that are scattered across small plots totalling 2 hectares located Valtuille de Abajo. The climate is both Atlantic and continentality, and the soils are shallow and clay-based.
The harvest is carried out manually. Fermentation takes place in large wooden barrels up to 5,000 liters. The juice of the wine macerates on its skins for 2-3 months. The wine is then aged in seven year old French oak barrels for 12 months, and bottled without being clarified or filtered.
La Poulosa 2018 (R. Pérez)
Deep ruby red. Dark fruit, earthy minerality, and subtle liquorice notes. Broad and supple on the palate, with ripe blackberries, prunes, a touch of spice, a fresh acidity, and textured tannins lending structure without harsh edges. A wine of balance and character, showing the strength of the vineyard.
The wine cooperatives of Conca de Barberà are among the most distinctive in Spain, not only for their role in reviving viticulture after the phylloxera crisis, but also for their unique architectural identity. Often referred to as wine cathedrals, these buildings are part of a movement that combined function, modernist design and social ambition in rural Catalonia in the early 20th century.
Credit: Cellers Domenys
During the 19th century, the so-called “Catalan Gold Rush” led to vineyards becoming almost the sole crop in Conca de Barberà. The region’s fertile soils and reliable water sources enabled it to meet the soaring demand for wine and spirits from Northern Europe and the Americas. But the prosperity was short-lived. In 1893, phylloxera struck the region, devastating the vineyards and pushing growers into crisis.
Recognising the need for collective action, the Sociedad de Trabajadores Agrícolas del Pueblo de Barberá was formed in 1894 – the first agricultural cooperative in all of Spain. This initiative laid the foundation for a cooperative tradition that would define the region. By 1902, leadership of the movement had passed to Josep M. Rendé from Espluga de Francolí, who played a crucial role in expanding cooperativism throughout La Conca.
The winery in the town of Barberà was established in 1903 and is considered the first purpose-built cooperative winery in Spain. In 1912, during the Commonwealth of Catalonia, Josep M. Rendé also initiated the construction of his hometown’s winery – a modernist building designed by Pere Domènec i Roure. It was this building that prompted the poet Àngel Guimerà to give these structures their enduring nickname: wine cathedrals.
Between 1912 and 1919, architects Pere Domènec and Cèsar Martinell, a disciple of Antoni Gaudí, designed six modernist wineries in Conca de Barberà. Martinell in particular combined traditional Catalan construction techniques, such as brick vaulting, with the functional needs of a working cellar. His designs allowed for gravity-fed vinification, optimal temperature control, and included large arched windows for ventilation. These buildings were meant not only to serve winemaking, but to uplift and dignify the rural working class at a time of great economic difficulty.
After the Spanish Civil War, the Barberà Agricultural Society merged with the Agricultural Trade Union, forming the Barberà de la Conca Agricultural Cooperative, which became one of the region’s most important winemaking institutions.
During my trip in Conca de Barberà I visited Castell D’Or (Cooperativa de L’Espluga de Francolí), Cellers Domenys (Sindicat Agricol de Rocafort de Queralt), the first one to be drawn by Cèsar Martinell in 1918, and Vinícola de Sarral – all of them among the most important cooperatives in the region. Though now operating under larger umbrella structures, each has deep roots in the cooperative history of the region. They have played a crucial role in preserving the trepat grape, traditionally used in rosé and cava blends, and are now turning their attention to making varietal red wines that reflect the character of the local terroir. Their continued investment in both tradition and modernisation shows that the cooperative spirit in Conca de Barberà is very much alive.
The modernist wineries of Conca de Barberà remain striking examples of how architectural vision and collective resilience came together in response to crisis. They are not only monuments to the past, but dynamic institutions shaping the future of Catalan wine.
Trepat 2024 (Castell D’Or) – Made in stainless steel. Light ruby in colour. Aromas of red berries and Mediterranean herbs. On the palate it is clean and fresh, with light tannins and a soft, dry finish. A very pure and accessible expression of young trepat.
Tres Naus Brut(Cellers Domenys), 2022, but labelled non-vintage – A blend of parellada, macabeu and xarel·lo, aged 18 months on the lees. Light in body with fine bubbles. Aromas of apple, citrus zest, hay and a touch of yeasty complexity. On the palate, lively acidity balances soft fruit, resulting in a bright and food-friendly sparkling wine.
Domenio Ull de Llebre 2021 (Cellers Domenys) – 100% ull de llebre from organic vineyards. Cherry red in colour. Aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry and wild herbs. On the palate, medium-bodied with a good balance of fruit and oak, and a hint of earthiness on the finish.
Portell Glatim Negre de Trepat 2022 (Vinícola de Sarral) – Made from organic trepat and aged four months in French and American oak. Light ruby hue. The nose offers redcurrant, cranberry, pepper and dried herbs. On the palate, it’s lively and savoury, with gentle oak, smooth texture and a fresh, spicy finish.
Located just outside Montblanc in the heart of Conca de Barberà, Mas Foraster, also called Josep Foraster, is a family-run estate that has become one of the leading names in the revival of trepat – the region’s native red grape. Founded in 1998, the winery is now run by Ricard Sebastià Foraster, who not only oversees the estate but also serves as president of the Consejo Regulador of the DO Conca de Barberà. “Josep was both my grandfather and my uncle,” says Ricard.
Kepa and Ricard
The estate currently covers 34 hectares – 27 owned and the rest leased – and only estate-grown grapes are used. All vineyards are farmed organically, and biodynamic compost is applied. Elevations range from 280 to 550 metres around Montblanc, and up to 650 meters around Sarral and on the other side of the mountains. These high altitudes, along with calcareous and clay-rich soils, contribute to the wines’ freshness and clarity. According to Ricard, while clay brings more yield, calcareous soils provide greater concentration – but above all, it’s the cool climate that trepat needs.
Trepat, traditionally used in rosado and cava, is now taking centre stage. Mas Foraster has been a key player in this transformation, releasing their first red trepat in 2009 – the second on the market after Carles Andreu. Their red trepats are fermented spontaneously, with a 40-day maceration that continues even after fermentation ends. Sulphite levels are kept low, always under 40 mg/l, and ageing takes place exclusively in used barrels, foudres or concrete eggs.
The current range of trepat-based wines is wide and expressive:
Les Gallinetes 2024 (55% trepat, 45% garnatxa) is a light, juicy red with aroma of red berries, with fine tannins and a smooth, easy-drinking style.
Trepat 2023, made from seven old vineyards (60–96 years), grown in calcareous soils, undergoes long maceration in foudre and barrique. Ruby in colour, it shows red forest fruits and white pepper, with freshness, finesse and length.
Julieta 2023, named after Ricard’s mother and his daughter, from a single north-facing vineyard planted in 1940 at 450 metres, is aged seven months in concrete eggs. With aromas of raspberry and flowers, it has more structure and weight, firm tannins and a long, lingering finish.
Pep 2022, from 86-year-old vines at 580 metres, is made with whole clusters, foot-trodden in alabaster tanks. Light cherry red, the wine shows red fruits and herbs, with firm yet juicy structure and real depth.
Ricard
In addition to red wines, Mas Foraster also makes noteworthy whites and skin-contact styles:
Blanc Selecció 2023 is a blend of macabeu, chardonnay and garnatxa gris. The wine is fermented in concrete eggs and sees some skin contact in foudre. Pale yellow with green hints, it shows citrus, yellow apple, good volume and bright acidity.
Brisat del Coster 2023, an orange wine made from macabeu (some of which also goes into the Blanc Selecció), undergoes 25 days of skin contact in steel and concrete, with no added sulphites. Golden in hue, it offers notes of citrus peel, flowers, herbs and apricot, with light tannins and a textured, fresh palate. Ricard notes that macabeu, with its lower oxidative character than garnatxa gris, results in a lighter colour.
Kepa
The cellar is overseen by Kepa Martínez, whose mother is from the Basque Country, hence the name Kepa. Fermentations are spontaneous and temperature-controlled by natural means – “fermentation starts when the temperature rises,” says Ricard.
With a clear focus on trepat and a deep commitment to sustainable farming and precision winemaking, Mas Foraster stands as one of the most respected producers in the Conca de Barberà today – a house where tradition, innovation and identity converge.
I visited Conca de Barberà to witness how the grape trepat is being brought into the spotlight. The event was organised by the communication and public relations agency Mahala in collaboration with the local wine authorities.
Montblanc, where the local Consejo Regulador has its offices
Trepat has been cultivated in Conca de Barberà for centuries. Before phylloxera it counted for one third of the planted area. Now it has long been overlooked in favour of grapes like garnatxa and tempranillo. Traditionally used in rosé and cava, it is now revealing its potential for elegant, fresh and spicy red wines. The grape thrives in calcareous and clay-rich soils, and the cool nights of the region help preserve its natural acidity.
Typically low in alcohol, trepat offers high acidity, floral and spicy notes, and an earthy undertone. Winemakers are increasingly experimenting with whole-bunch fermentation, carbonic maceration, amphora and concrete eggs to highlight the grape’s unique personality. At the same time, organic and biodynamic practices are gaining ground.
Bernat and Carles Andreu
A pioneer of the modern trepat in Conca de Barberà was Celler Carles Andreu, who made the first single-varietal red wine from the grape back in 2004. They were among the first to believe in its potential. Today led by Carles’ son Bernat, I particularly like their young unoaked trepats, that display finesse, delicate berry fruit, herbal touches and a distinctive peppery finish.
Mas Foraster has also made trepat a signature, using organic cultivation and often working with whole clusters and gentle extraction to emphasise elegance. Led by Ricard Sebastià Foraster, they make fresh trepats, with hints of raspberry, rose petals and light tannins. But with their Julieta – the name of both Ricard’s mother and daughter – they also offer a slightly more structured version of the grape.
Patrick Webb and Roger Gili, Vidbertus
Vidbertus represents a new generation of winemakers focused on organic viticulture and minimal intervention in the cellar. Their pure trepats, like Elixir, reflect the limestone soils of Conca de Barberà, showing vibrant acidity and a spicy profile.
Josep Serra and Marta Pedra
Marta Pedra of Vins de Pedra practises organic viticulture and is in the process of certification. The wines carry a unique label design, created by her godfather and changed each year. Trempat sees careful use of new French oak, resulting in a wine that’s light and fragrant with red fruits, but also with refreshing menthol and liquorice and a delicate peppery note. An outdoor lunch at the farm offered a generous taste of everything grown and crafted on site—from freshly baked bread to fragrant olive oil and vibrant vegetables.
Rendé Masdéu, which lost its historic winery in the floods of 2019, has continued its work with trepat from a new facility. They produce both rosé and red styles with a balance between tradition and modernity.
Inma Soler, Mas de La Pansa
Then there is Mas de La Pansa, a small-scale producer making limited quantities of artisanal trepat. Inma Soler focuses on organic cultivation, spontaneous fermentation, skin contact, and ageing in old oak or stainless steel. Her dessert wine Trepat Dulce was a winner at the final dinner.
We witnessed the modernist architecture of the region’s cooperatives, among the oldest in Spain, in buildings by Cèsar Martinell. But more than that: The cooperatives have also played an important role in keeping trepat alive. Castell D’Or, Cellers Domenys and Vinícola de Sarral have used the grape in their cava blends for decades. Now, they are also exploring its potential for elegant, varietal wines in both rosé and red styles.
The Monastery of Poblet
The grape’s recent evolution in Conca de Barberà suggests a promising future. It would be perfect in today’s trendy bars. I would say it so far is at best in its young and unoaked versions. With growing attention from both winemakers and enthusiasts, this once-overlooked variety may well be on the path to a full-blown renaissance—not only in Spain, but on the international stage.
A night at Bar Brutal is never just a dinner—it’s a performance. An ever-evolving stage for natural wine, where flavour pairings are exploratory rather than prescriptive, and the sommelier often plays as crucial a role as the chef. On this occasion, guided by the sharp and intuitive Sebastián, I tasted through four wines against three small plates—an informal experiment that revealed unexpected harmonies and tensions.
Bar Brutal, also known as Can Cisa, is one of Barcelona’s pioneering natural wine bars. Opened in 2013 in the El Born district, it was founded by Joan Valencia (of Cuvée 3000) together with Max and Stefano Colombo of Xemei. The focus is on organic and low-intervention wines from Spain and beyond, paired with a lively, Mediterranean-inspired kitchen that highlights seasonal produce.
Kazu 2023(Umineko Jozo)
From vineyards in Conca de Barberà and Penedès, this wine poured a hazy, pale pinkish-grey—grapefruit juice with a faint golden cast. The nose was floral and citrus-led, with subtle hints of fresh herbs. On the palate, it showed unexpected weight, balanced by clean acidity and a slight phenolic grip. It worked beautifully with zamburiñas—small scallops served with smoky butter and herbs—bringing out a soft sweetness in the shellfish and lending structure without overwhelming the dish.
Jaumet 2023(Jaume Prats)
From Santa Margalida on Mallorca, made from the red nanto negro, calley and fogoneu, and the white premsal, malvasía and moscatel. Slightly deeper in hue, Jaumet offered aromas of citrus peel and dried orange, with a faint oxidative edge. Its structure was taut and precise, marked by bracing acidity and a long, blood orange finish. It paired brilliantly with mojama—salt-cured tuna—where its sharpness sliced through the dense, iron-rich fish, and the wine’s bitterness mirrored the umami-laden finish of the dish. One of the evening’s most compelling pairings.
Vent Debout 2024(Domaine Yoyo)
A carignan from Languedoc-Roussillon, direct press, fermented in inox and short time in barriques of 6th use. Clean and pink but bordering on copper, this rosé smelled of raspberry and wild strawberry. Though fruit-driven on the nose, it showed a firm backbone and a savoury streak that came into focus with food. Sebastián confidently recommended it with labneh, and he was right. The creamy, tangy yoghurt seemed made for the wine’s structured acidity. A pairing that felt both precise and generous—like a well-judged chord with just enough tension to be interesting.
Rød 2023(Bodega Frontio)
Rød, meaning red in Danish, is a garnacha made by Thyge “Chus” Jensen in Arribes. A deep cherry-red wine, Rød was fragrant with red berries—cherry and raspberry—alongside dried herbs and a touch of earth. On the palate, it was fresh and quietly structured, with fine tannins and well-integrated acidity. I had saved a slice of mojama for this wine, and it was a surprisingly successful match. The salt and depth of the tuna played against the wine’s herbal core and supple fruit. With rustic bread and good olive oil, the whole combination felt grounded, unpretentious and complete.
Bar Brutal continues to live up to its name—raw, real, and a little chaotic in the best way. With Sebastián as guide, the wines led the conversation, and the food responded in kind. It was not a menu, but a dialogue—one in which the wines were given room to speak, and where not all pairings needed to resolve. Sometimes, tension is the most expressive note of all.
Aurelio García and Micaela Rubio, both chemists and oenologists from the province of Cuenca, have expanded their winemaking efforts to include the high-altitude vineyards of the Sierra de Gredos in Ávila, particularly around the village of Navatalgordo. Here, the vineyards are situated at elevations between 1100 and 1300 meters, with granitic soils that vary in decomposition, texture, and orientation. The region’s continental mountain climate, marked by long, snowy winters and cool summers that extend into autumn, offers ideal conditions for cultivating old vines. Many of the vineyards in this area were abandoned following the Spanish Civil War and remained untouched for decades, providing Aurelio and Micaela with the opportunity to work with 80-year-old garnacha tinta vines. Their focus in Gredos is to explore the distinctive characteristics of each site, particularly how soil type and exposure influence the flavor and texture of the wines.
+Altitud is a village wine from Ávila, sourced from 40 plots located between 1100 and 1300 meters, making them some of the highest vineyards on the Iberian Peninsula. The wine is made from 98% garnacha tinta, with 2% white table grapes blended in. Each parcel is vinified separately based on soil type, and the wine is aged for 14 to 15 months in a mix of 60% concrete, 20% silica/clay, and 20% used 500-litre barrels.
+Altitud 2021 (A. García & M. Rubio)
Delicate, almost ethereal wine. Light in both colour and body. Aromas of red berries (raspberry, wild strawberry), complemented by subtle floral notes. It is aromatic, complex, and light on its feet, with a granite-derived texture and a distinctive mineral finish.
Aurelio García is one of the most attentive and thoughtful voices in modern Central Spanish wine. Together with his partner, Micaela Rubio, he works across three regions—Cuenca, Ávila, and Soria—always with a focus on old vineyards, native varieties, and minimal intervention. His wines are precise, expressive, and deeply rooted in place.
When a case from Aurelio García arrived in the post, two bottles had sadly broken in transit. Still, four remained intact—and with those, I took the opportunity to gather my wine club for a focused tasting. We added a few complementary wines for context, but the stars of the evening were clearly Aurelio’s own: La Infanta, +Altitud, Alto de la Cruz, and La Guía. Though we missed out on El Reflejo and Mikaela, the tasting offered a vivid insight into Aurelio’s style across three distinct regions.
Me and Aurelio in the La Infanta parcel, summer of ’23
La Infanta 2021 – Cuenca Cuenca here refers to the Ribera del Júcar zone, though Aurelio prefers not to label his wines under the DO, opting for greater freedom. La Infanta comes from a single parcel in Casas de Benítez and is made from 60% bobal and 40% co-planted local varieties. Delicate and complex, it showed dark berry fruit (dark cherry and plum) on the nose, along with herbal notes, a hint of tar, and a taut, mineral texture. A slightly bitter aftertaste added grip. There was a quiet power to it—restrained, yet full of energy.
+Altitud 2021 – Ávila A village wine from the granite soils of Navatalgordo in the Sierra de Gredos. Light in colour and body, almost ethereal, it offered notes of raspberry, wild strawberry, and flowers, with a fine, lacy texture. This was the most immediately charming wine of the tasting, with several tasters noting its vibrant fruit and finesse.
Alto de la Cruz 2022 – Ávila Also from Navatalgordo, but from a cooler, north-facing valley. Though paler in colour, this wine showed more structure and depth. It opened with herbal tones, redcurrant and floral aromatics, then narrowed into a vertical, mineral finish. There was more volume here, likely from clay soils, with fine-grained tannins and underlying tension.
La Guía 2021 – Soria From Matanza de Soria, a high-altitude village in the eastern part of Ribera del Duero. A blend of tinto fino (tempranillo) and albillo mayor from pre-phylloxera vines, it combined red and dark fruits with floral lift and a subtle hint of nuts. Velvety on the palate, cool and juicy at the core—it struck a fine balance between seriousness and drinkability. For me, this was the most complete wine of the night: subtle, savoury, and quietly profound. Meanwhile, +Altitud stood out for sheer charm and drinkability. While La Infanta and La Guía come in serious bottles with serious price tags, the wines from Gredos are outstanding value for money.
What We Missed
We didn’t get to taste El Reflejo or Mikaela, but here’s what they might have brought to the table:
El Reflejo is Aurelio’s village wine from Cuenca—a blend of bobal and co-planted varieties from around 25 parcels. Fruit-driven and supple, it offers dark and red berries, with freshness and an approachable style.
Mikaela, named after his wife and winemaking partner, is a paraje wine from deeper, pebble-rich soils. Made with whole clusters and aged in foudres, it shows juicy, concentrated fruit with a mineral streak—lively and taut.
Micaela, Celia and Aurelio, summer of ’23
Each wine carried the mark of its place, but all shared a sense of purity, restraint, and precision. Interestingly, my fellow tasters had no difficulty identifying which of the three regions each wine came from—even though the wines were, of course, tasted blind. That in itself is a mark of quality, and a testament to the clarity of Aurelio García’s site expression. Even in the absence of the two missing bottles, the tasting was a clear reminder that Aurelio García is crafting some of Spain’s most thoughtful and terroir-driven wines.
In Toro Álvar de Dios Hernández is taking a new approach, while also respecting the region’s heritage. His journey began in 2008 when he took over a century-old vineyard from his grandfather, situated in El Pego, Zamora. This vineyard, with its sandy soils, survived the phylloxera plague, allowing the ungrafted vines planted in 1919 to thrive. In honor of his grandfather, affectionately known as Aciano, Álvar crafted a wine that encapsulates both familial legacy and the distinct terroir of the place.
Aciano 2018 is a fruit of Álvar’s commitment to sustainable viticulture and minimal intervention winemaking. Produced from tinta de toro (tempranillo) grapes, the wine undergoes natural yeast fermentation, with 60% whole clusters included. It is then aged for 12 months in neutral French oak barrels ranging from 300 to 600 liters. The result is a wine that stands out in the Toro appellation for its elegance and finesse, diverging from the region’s typically robust style. I hope this could be the future.
Aciano 2018(Álvar de Dios)
Dark cherry red. Aromatic herbs, wild berries, and floral notes, exuding freshness and restrained ripeness. On the palate, the wine offers a chalky minerality, a fresh acidity and grainy, sandy tannins that reflect the vineyard’s soil. Good concentration and decent length.
I’m back in Porto, for this year’s edition of Simplesmente… Vinho. Starting officially tomorrow, but we are now gathered in Niepoort’s lodge. Leader of one of the classic port producers, Dirk Niepoort, was among those who spearheaded today’s boom in 2008 with his collaboration with Equipo Navazos and the wine Navazos Niepoort. The wine was made from grapes grown in an albariza vineyard in Jerez and fermented without fortification, undergoing a period under flor, thus combining freshness, depth, and a subtle saline character. It quickly became a cult wine.
Tonight, Dirk poured both the 2014 and 2016 vintages of that wine, alongside some backlog vintages of his reds and a stunning white port from 1895. Ricardo Freitas from Barbeito added to the lineup with an exceptional 50 year old Madeira..
Ricardo Freitas presenting his contribution. Dirk Niepoort next to him.
The Jerez boom is about a return to the vineyard, organic farming, and singular wines. It is this movement that Simplesmenteseeks to highlight by presenting 14 producers from the sherry region this year—both raw and refined. That same energy—of pushing boundaries while respecting history—is what Simplesmente Vinho is all about.
Beyond the wines, the evening took on an artistic dimension as well, with guests contributing their own creative expressions—spontaneous, vibrant, and very much in the spirit of the gathering.
Ramiro Ibáñez and Willy Pérez, two of the leading lights in today’s boom
From tomorrow, the focus shifts to Alfândega do Porto, where the festival truly comes alive. The grand riverside space will host winemakers, drinkers, and thinkers from across Iberia, with a special spotlight on the producers from Marco de Jerez. They’ve come to challenge perceptions, to pour wines that blur the lines between past and future, between oxidative depth and raw immediacy.
Luis Pérez is one of the leading producers in the new wave of Jerez. I reviewed a pasto wine in September last year. Here you can learn what it is, if you don’t already know, and also get an introduction to the producer.
Caberrubia is a non vintage wine from the El Corregidor estate in the Carrascal pago. It’s named a palma, a classification for especially fine wines in the fino style.
The grapes are palomino fino trained in gobelet, from a 40 years old vineyard. The producer’s website tells that the harvesters go through the vineyard from the beginning of August to the end of September selecting bunches for different types of wines. The first pickings are for the greenest bunches on the plant. From these they make a wine with low alcohol and high acidity, that is used to correct the rest of the wines. The third of five pickings is the base for the palmas such as Caberrubia.
The vinification is typical: Light pressing and fermentation in the barrel, packing in December and approximately three and a half years of biological ageing.
There have been various sacas (bottlings) of the wine. Now we have come to the seventh. With Saca VII they have expanded the selection to 17 botas (typical sherry casks), mostly 2017, 2018 and 2019, and small proportions of previous vintages. With this assemblage they seek a style that is representative for the vineyard, that is “an inland character, roundness and concentration, without losing the elegance and finesse that defines all the previous sacas”. According to the new legislation a wine can be called sherry even if it’s not fortified, only if it has reached 15º of alcohol. This saca has not reached that level, so it’s not released as a fino within the D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, but as a white wine.
Caberrubia Saca VII(Luis Pérez)
Deep golden. Complex aroma with fresh fruits like baked apples and peach, complemented by nuts, and a touch of flor and salt. Good volume in the mouth, concentrated and smooth, salty and long. It has more power than the previous saca, but it’s also very elegant.
Price: Medium-high
Food: Aperitif, various tapas incl. asparagus, cheese and nuts, also nice with rice and spicy dishes
