Category: Wine of the Week

From the 2023 GG release

Published 13. May 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

At a tasting in our wine club yesterday, we explored a line-up of Grosses Gewächs Rieslings from the newly released 2023 vintage. Among the highlights was Katharina Wechsler’s Morstein.

The 2023 vintage in Germany, and particularly in Rheinhessen, offered conditions that many growers described as “classic.” Early impressions suggest, in short, that this is a year of finesse rather than power.

Morstein is one of Rheinhessen’s great limestone vineyards, perched above the village of Westhofen. First mentioned in the 13th century, it is now firmly established as a Grosses Gewächs (GG) site, producing Rieslings of impressive longevity and mineral tension. The combination of deep clay and active limestone gives the wines both weight and energy.

Since taking over her family estate in 2009, Katharina Wechsler has become a leading figure in the new wave of German winegrowers. Her style is defined by organic farming, spontaneous fermentation and long lees ageing in large neutral oak, resulting in wines that are textural, articulate, and deeply rooted in place.

The grapes for this wine were hand-harvested in several passes to capture optimal ripeness. After gentle foot-trodding of the grapes, the must was fermented with wild yeasts in large oak casks and matured on its fine lees for several months. The approach is low-intervention but carefully guided, allowing the site’s signature to shine through.

Morstein 2023 (K. Wechsler)

Pale colour. Aromatic with lime, white peach, green herbs and wet stone. Expressive on the palate, with a saline drive and laser-cut acidity. Fine texture from lees ageing, and a long, stony finish that speaks of its limestone origin. Still youthful, probably with an excellent ageing potential, but already compelling in its linear, elegant style.

Price: High

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Wine of the Week

A natural classic

Published 9. May 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

In the world of natural wines, La Sorga is a classic. Based in Montagnac, Languedoc, France, Anthony Tortul has been crafting expressive, zero-sulphite wines since 2008. His approach involves sourcing grapes from organic and biodynamic vineyards, focusing on the unique terroir of each site.

This wine was enjoyed at Tempo wine bar in Sandnes, Norway. I didn’t find the vintage on the label, bur the lot number suggests 2023, which seems probable. The Boyfriend is an orange wine that exemplifies Anthony’s commitment and style. This cuvée is a blend of grenache blanc, muscat of alexandria, and marsanne.

The grapes undergo skin maceration, resulting in a deep orange hue and a complex flavour profile.

The Boyfriend 2023 (La Sorga)

Deep orange. Intense aromas of clementine, tropical fruits like pineapple and mango, and a hint of grapefruit, complemented by floral notes and subtle spice. Juicy in the mouth, dry with soft tannins and a lingering mineral finish. Approachable and fun at 11°.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Clisson

Published 2. May 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

The Muscadet region has long been synonymous with light, seafood-friendly whites, but a quiet revolution has taken place over the past couple of decades. Producers are now drawing attention to the age-worthiness and complexity that melon de bourgogne can offer—especially when rooted in the right soils and afforded patient lees ageing.

Clisson is one of the cru villages of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, its wines defined by the granite soils and long ageing on fine lees. For a cru Clisson, the regulations demand at least 24 months of lees contact. Ollivier-Cottencau take this one step further. This 2018 vintage spent no less than 42 months on the lees before bottling, allowing the wine to gain both depth and texture.

Ollivier-Cottencau is a collaboration between two families with deep roots in the region. The estate, situated in Maisdon-sur-Sèvre, is now in the hands of the younger generation, who have embraced organic farming and a low-intervention approach in the cellar. Their wines reflect a respect for both tradition and terroir, with a particular focus on long ageing.

Over time, the lees (yeast cells) break down and release compounds that contribute to the wine’s mouthfeel and aromatic complexity. The result is a wine that bears little resemblance to the brisk, saline Muscadet of old. Instead, Clisson 2018 presents a broader, more layered profile, while retaining the hallmark tension and freshness of the region.

Clisson 2018 (Ollivier-Cottencau)

Golden hue. Aroma of dried herbs, crushed stone, and ripe lemon peel, underscored by a light nuttiness from the lees. On the palate, the wine is taut yet textural, with a saline core wrapped in notes of orchard fruit and a gentle smokiness. Long finish, with a subtle grip that speaks of granite and time. A wine for the table—and for contemplation.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Burja’s beauty

Published 25. April 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

This beautiful Slovenian white was presented a few years ago. Read some background information here.

In short: Burja is located in the Vipava valley about 40 km east of the Italian border. Primož Lavrenčič has a holistic approach and farms organically and according to biodynamic principles.

The grape composition here is laški rizling (Italian riesling or Welschriesling) 30%, malvazija (d’Istria) 30%, rebula (ribolla gialla) 30%, others 10%. 7 days skin-maceration in steel, 10 months ageing in barrel.

Bela 2020 (Burja Estate)

Deep golden. Aroma of mature fruits, orange peel peach, herbs, white pepper. Full on the palate, a touch of nuts and a natural, integrated acidity, salty in the finish.

Price: Medium

Food: Light meat, pig, veal, grilled and white fish, tasty salads

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Wine of the Week

La Poulosa, Valtuille de Abajo

Published 18. April 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

This wine accompanied haggis at a recent private dinner. Maybe not as strange as it sounds, El Bierzo has its botillo, a pig intestine filled with sausages and spices, not very unlike the more famous Scottish national dish.

La Vizcaína is the project of Raúl Pérez and his nephew César Márquez.

La Poulosa is based on mencía, but it alto contains small percentages of grapes like bastardo and garnacha tintorera. They come from old vines between 60 and 80 years old that are scattered across small plots totalling 2 hectares located Valtuille de Abajo. The climate is both Atlantic and continentality, and the soils are shallow and clay-based.

The harvest is carried out manually. Fermentation takes place in large wooden barrels up to 5,000 liters. The juice of the wine macerates on its skins for 2-3 months. The wine is then aged in seven year old French oak barrels for 12 months, and bottled without being clarified or filtered.

La Poulosa 2018 (R. Pérez)

Deep ruby red. Dark fruit, earthy minerality, and subtle liquorice notes. Broad and supple on the palate, with ripe blackberries, prunes, a touch of spice, a fresh acidity, and textured tannins lending structure without harsh edges. A wine of balance and character, showing the strength of the vineyard.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Gracefully aged Valtellina

Published 11. April 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

My daughter was born in 1999. Many years ago I collected a case of wines to give her at her 18th birthday. The last of these we had the opportunity to enjoy together last week.

High in the northern reaches of Lombardy, where the Alps rise toward Switzerland, lies Valtellina – a region often overlooked in favour of its more famous Nebbiolo siblings from Piemonte. But for those who take the time to explore it, Valtellina offers singular wines that speak softly but persistently. One such wine is Il Pettirosso, made by Ar.Pe.Pe., a family producer whose dedication to alpine Nebbiolo is both steadfast and poetic.

Ar.Pe.Pe. stands for Arturo Pelizzatti Perego, the man who, in 1984, reclaimed the family’s historic vineyards and gave new life to a tradition dating back to the 1860s. Today, the winery is in the hands of his children – Isabella, Emanuele, and Guido – who continue to work the steep terraces of Sassella and Grumello with a mix of devotion and defiance. In these dramatic landscapes, handwork isn’t just a choice, it’s a necessity.

Il Pettirosso is often seen as the most graceful expression in the Ar.Pe.Pe. range – low sulphite, spontaneous fermentation, a cuvée that blends fruit from both Sassella and Grumello, and aged in large old botti before further ageing in bottle. It is not the most powerful wine, nor the most structured. But what it offers is clarity, nuance, and a kind of unforced beauty that rewards patience.

Il Pettirosso 1999 (Ar.Pe.Pe.)

Pale brick red with amber highlights, translucent and delicate. The nose opens with dried rose petals, truffle, orange peel and forest floor, followed by a gentle smokiness and a whisper of Alpine herbs. On the palate, the wine is featherlight yet persistent, with fine, resolved tannins and a graceful acidity that carries flavours of sour cherry, tea leaf, and balsamic nuances. The finish is long, echoing the wine’s mountain origins and meditative age. A wine not of volume, but of resonance.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Between volcanic stones on Pico

Published 4. April 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

On an island shaped by lava flows and stone-walled vineyards, we find Entre Pedras—a producer whose name, meaning “between stones”, is a fitting tribute to Pico’s volcanic terrain, where vines cling to life just metres from the Atlantic Ocean.

Arinto dos açores is not a clone of the mainland arinto but a distinct, ancient variety indigenous to the Azores. Perfectly adapted to the challenges of Pico—high humidity, saline winds, and meagre soils—it thrives in biscoitos, traditional plots carved into black basalt. Each vine grows within low stone enclosures, or currais, which protect against ocean winds and salt spray. The roots penetrate fissures in the lava rock, drawing mineral intensity from deep within the earth.

Entre Pedras is the project of André Ribeiro and his partner Ricardo Pinto, who bring a deep respect for Pico’s winemaking heritage alongside a clear commitment to purity and site expression. The vineyards are farmed by hand, and fermentation is carried out with native yeasts, allowing the grapes and volcanic soils to speak for themselves. The 2022 vintage was fermented in stainless steel and aged on fine lees—a method that builds texture while preserving freshness and clarity.

Arinto dos Açores 2022 (Entre Pedras)

Bright pale gold in the glass. The nose is saline and stony, with notes of lime and green apple skin. On the palate, it’s razor-sharp and electric, driven by a vibrant core of acidity. There’s a subtle creaminess, underpinned by a fine, chalky texture. Persistent and mouthwatering—this is a wine of clarity, precision, and tension.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

Heights of Ávila

Published 28. March 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

Aurelio García and Micaela Rubio, both chemists and oenologists from the province of Cuenca, have expanded their winemaking efforts to include the high-altitude vineyards of the Sierra de Gredos in Ávila, particularly around the village of Navatalgordo. Here, the vineyards are situated at elevations between 1100 and 1300 meters, with granitic soils that vary in decomposition, texture, and orientation. The region’s continental mountain climate, marked by long, snowy winters and cool summers that extend into autumn, offers ideal conditions for cultivating old vines. Many of the vineyards in this area were abandoned following the Spanish Civil War and remained untouched for decades, providing Aurelio and Micaela with the opportunity to work with 80-year-old garnacha tinta vines. Their focus in Gredos is to explore the distinctive characteristics of each site, particularly how soil type and exposure influence the flavor and texture of the wines.

+Altitud is a village wine from Ávila, sourced from 40 plots located between 1100 and 1300 meters, making them some of the highest vineyards on the Iberian Peninsula. The wine is made from 98% garnacha tinta, with 2% white table grapes blended in. Each parcel is vinified separately based on soil type, and the wine is aged for 14 to 15 months in a mix of 60% concrete, 20% silica/clay, and 20% used 500-litre barrels.

+Altitud 2021 (A. García & M. Rubio)

Delicate, almost ethereal wine. Light in both colour and body. Aromas of red berries (raspberry, wild strawberry), complemented by subtle floral notes. It is aromatic, complex, and light on its feet, with a granite-derived texture and a distinctive mineral finish.

Price: Medium

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Wine of the Week

A glimpse into the greatness

Published 21. March 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

I am not among the ranks of those who follow Bourgogne closely. One reason is that I do my best to keep up with what happens other places, such as the Iberian Peninsula. I could also mention the prices. But then, Bourgogne Côte-d’Or has emerged as an exciting category for wine lovers seeking high-quality wines at more accessible prices than the prestigious appellations. What is more, the director of my local wine shop is a highly regarded expert on Bourgogne. So at a major release of Burgundies, from DRC and downwards, he said that this was a must try.

I have learned that Bouzereau is based in Meursault, where he makes elegant white wines from that appellation. The estate is now run by Michel’s son, Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau. He follows organic practices in the vineyard and employs a gentle winemaking approach to preserve the finesse of the fruit. Bouzereau employs a restrained use of new oak to preserve the wine’s elegance.

The grapes for this wine come from selected plots in the Côte de Beaune. The 2022 vintage was warm, yet retained enough freshness to ensure balance in the wines. The grapes are hand-harvested, partly destemmed and fermented with indigenous yeasts in open-top vats. This cuvée saw one year in barrel, 15% new.

Bourgogne Côte-d’Or Pinot Noir 2022 (Michel Bouzereau)

Bright ruby with hints of violet. Aroma of red berries (cherry, raspberry), floral notes and subtle spice. Fresh and delicate in the mouth, with vibrant red fruit, balanced acidity, fine-grained tannins, with a gentle earthiness. A refined, terroir-driven pinot noir with purity of fruit and silky tannins. Beautiful already, but will evolve over the next few years.

Price: Medium

Food: Light meat (veal), roasted duck breast, or a classic wild mushroom risotto

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Wine of the Week

Álvar’s Aciano, a new approach for Toro

Published 14. March 2025 by Vidar Kenneth Johansen

In Toro Álvar de Dios Hernández is taking a new approach, while also respecting the region’s heritage. His journey began in 2008 when he took over a century-old vineyard from his grandfather, situated in El Pego, Zamora. This vineyard, with its sandy soils, survived the phylloxera plague, allowing the ungrafted vines planted in 1919 to thrive. In honor of his grandfather, affectionately known as Aciano, Álvar crafted a wine that encapsulates both familial legacy and the distinct terroir of the place.

Aciano 2018 is a fruit of Álvar’s commitment to sustainable viticulture and minimal intervention winemaking. Produced from tinta de toro (tempranillo) grapes, the wine undergoes natural yeast fermentation, with 60% whole clusters included. It is then aged for 12 months in neutral French oak barrels ranging from 300 to 600 liters. The result is a wine that stands out in the Toro appellation for its elegance and finesse, diverging from the region’s typically robust style. I hope this could be the future.

Aciano 2018 (Álvar de Dios)

Dark cherry red. Aromatic herbs, wild berries, and floral notes, exuding freshness and restrained ripeness. On the palate, the wine offers a chalky minerality, a fresh acidity and grainy, sandy tannins that reflect the vineyard’s soil. Good concentration and decent length.

Price: Medium

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